Ok I must be missing something here. I have a 2 stage carve and it finished the 1st stage and of course when you change the bit for the 2nd stage it’s impossible to change it without accidentally moving the drill. So after changing the bit I select ‘Use previous Home position’ and the 2nd stage carve is of course off the amount I moved the drill. Ugh!
Are you using easel or UGS? Also you might want to look into the triquetra zeroing block. Has saved me a few times
I use a “Charley block” ie; triquetra 3 axis zero block.
When changing out the bit for a two stage carve , ( roughing pass/finish pass). I dont cut the power to the motors when changing bits, since I am using a quiet cut spindle,I need two wrenches to release the collet. I have gotten into the habit of working both wrenches with one hand with a squeezing motion to avoid moving things when changing bits. and a re zero for the z axis is always needed. i just re-run all 3 axis’s and hit the mark every time with the Charley block. This way it doesnt matter if i bump it just a little during the change. As @MRoss stated it can get you out of a bind as well.
You have to take special care when changing bits to not move the spindle. It is possible but as previously mentioned, you still have to redo Z zero.
The triquetra three axis block is a life saver when you move the spindle or just in general with two stage carving.
Also, here’s another trick that I believe will work. If you rehome the machine, the previous X/Y/Z position should be restored since the saved work position is relative to the machine zero position. So if you’re changing bits and move the router, do another homing cycle then issue a gcode command to go to X and Y zero and double check it’s where you set it previously.
I’m using Easel. I have a Z Probe but have yet to implement it. Will this work in place of the Triquetra?
probably only for the z axis. I dont know if yours will work for x and y.
Yeah I do need to learn how to use that properly. I’ve searched Inventables and YouTube for a video but no luck…can anyone direct me to something??
By any chance did you hit the “Unlock” button available when setting up the 2 stage carve - it isn’t available with the single stage. If you unlocked it, it will stay unlocked making it next to impossible to do a bit change without moving it.
If that is the problem just open up a 2 stage carve and press “Lock the Spindle.”
I’ve have moved my x axis during a bit change due to have bit chucked in to Tight and probably putting to much pressure left or right. That’s why I like the zero block for my stupid mistakes
I have the probe and like you could not find information on it. When in Easel and you hit carve just follow the steps. Then when to get to the question about do you have a probe, select that option. The program will step you through the process even to the point it will confirm that you have put away the probe after use. I love it!!
You also need to measure your plate for exact thickness and when setting up click the advanced link and make sure your dimensions are right. Some have had this setting off by a bit and it will make a difference.
That was one of my questions, thank you. The round metal ‘plate’ of the Z Probe is a different thickness than my board and of course placing it on the corner of the board doesn’t work for obvious reasons so if I place it on the waste board how do I compensate that.
So basically if my board I am carving is 3/4" and the ‘plate’ is 1/2" I need to make sure my material setting is at 1 1/4"…right?
Thanks Phil for your help understanding this. Oh and I was just using the 1/2" as a example, I should have indicated that.
What you shared makes total sense but I have another question which pertains to my original question…in a 2 stage carve I set the ‘Home’ point with the probe which is on the material to be carved. The first stage goes fine, I change the bit and move the drill how do I get it to the same ‘Home’ point now considering that the touch plate is close to the size of a quarter how do I know where ‘zero’ is so the 2nd stage is dead on?
I’m gonna call Inventables and discuss this with them because even if one is super careful while changing the bit even if you move the spindle a tiny amount the crave isn’t going to be precise and for what I am trying to do I need it to be precise as possible. I just need to learn how to get it 100% back to ‘home’ before it starts the 2nd stage.
Phil I see your invaluable activity on this forum, understand that I and pretty much everyone here appreciates your skill and knowledge - so thank you for your help!!!
I’ve moved my spindle before even when it’s locked. What I learned from that is, I was putting way too much torque on the collet to tighten it. You don’t have to really crank it on but make it tight.
Also, your router should have the collet hold button exposed so try to push and hold the button while also holding the spindle mount in place. It’s a bit awkward but it’s possible.
@CaryKing what did Inventables say regarding the matter when you called them up?