3 Axis Automatic Zero for X-Carve

3 Axis Automatic Zero for X-Carve Running the g-shield with grbl

I have been making and selling a 3 Axis Touch plate and thought it best to move it to the For Sale area. I have found a new way to zero all three axis of your X-Carve or any CNC that uses standard G-code. This is done all at one time by running a g-code file that is generated by my spreadsheet. With it you can zero any bit you have. Any size shank both in metric mode and inch mode. The smallest Ball Nose, any V-Bit, Straight Endmills, and even the biggest Waste Board surfacing bits.

There is a similar devices on the market that sells for $77.00 and does most of what mine does but is only available for Mach 3/4 users. Another is available for $89 that only zeros your Z Axis.

For members of the Inventables forum only, mine sells for $30.00 plus $6.80 shipping to US addresses. I will ship them internationally for the same $30.00 plus the actual postage. I recently sent one to Australia and the shipping was $34.95. Crazy I know but it was still cheaper than the other two available online.

With it you can zero your X, Y, Z axis automatically all at one time using g-code that is generated by the spreadsheet that I provide. You can also zero just your Z axis if you prefer. Included in your package is a DVD Data disk that has a User Manual, Banana Plug for the touch Plate, Alligator Clip for the bit, Video demonstration/instructions, G-Code Generator Spreadsheet with a Stepper Calibration work sheet, Fine tuning instructions to achieve that perfect zero every time, and a wiring diagram with instructions. I have spent countless hours perfecting this product, creating the spreadsheet, writing the instructions, and recording video so that even those brand new to CNC will be able to use this with success.

I encourage those that have used my touch plate to leave feedback so that others can purchase with confidence that this is a quality product that does everything I say it does.
Here is a short video that shows it in action.

In stock orders will ship the same day after payment is received or the next business day. Shipping is through the US Post Office using the Priority Mail Small Flat Rate mailing box. Shipping time is 2 to 3 days in transit to most US Addresses.

05/27/2016 9:00 PM Update

I have 9 in stock today ready to ship. Mach 3 support is only a few days away!

I intend to continue selling these to Inventables Forum Members for $30.00 plus shipping. In order to get the discount please send me a Msg and I will provide you with a coupon code to take $20.00 off the original price. You can use this code in the checkout page to get the discount. The web site is:


Thank you everyone for your purchases!



Sold Out. I should have more available to ship by 04/15/16.


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For someone who has never used anything but Easel (myself), how difficult is this to incorporate?

Simple. I was only an easel user too, bought Charley’s tool and had it working in literally 10 minutes. I basically just installed UGS (universal gcode sender) and I use his macro to set zero, then launch easel and tell it I’ve homed my bit and BOOM! done.

Thanks for the insight. Can the zero be set anywhere in the xyz plane? I never use bottom left.

The front left corner is generally considered the X and Y zero points. With this touch plate you can set your Z Axis at any location you like but the X and Y are currently locked to the front left.

I could update the spreadsheet to allow you to use any corner but to set the X and Y zero point to the center would require a visual alignment. If you are using the center of your work piece material as your X & Y Zero then this tough plate is probably not for you.

However, If you want to always know that any bit you use is truly set at zero for all three axis then it is a simple matter of setting your zero point to be at the left front corner and using my setup. This won’t affect how your carving is done. It is just a reference point for the machine to start from.


DarrylKegg is correct. You can still use this to zero your machine accurately and use Easel to carve. Installing UGS is simple and it works well with my g-code. So like he said. Use UGS to zero your bit and make sure that you don’t move it once it is located at 0,0,0. Then load Easel and skip the homing and zeroing since your bit is already as 0,0,0.

It is an extra step to do before you start carving but at least you always know that you have a accurate zero to start from.


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I’ll have to pass on this but thanks for the info. I don’t use homing switches and my zero is always in a different location depending on the work piece. The vacuum table part of my wasteboard is a 24in square in the center and my zero point usually ends up in that location.

Hey, I understand completely if you want to pass. Just to be sure that you understand how the touch plate works, when using it, you place it on the front left corner of your work piece regardless of where it is located on you machine. Then you zero your bit to that location. Basically it is the same as you have been doing except with this you get a more accurate, and faster zeroing than when you eyeball it. It does not zero to a positon on you machine but the work piece after it is mounted instead.

Thanks for your interest though,


For Availability

Please check the original msg at the top of this thread. Just below the video is a updated quantity that is available for immediate shipping and the date that it was updated.


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I appreciate your explanation. I was under the assumption it required the use of Easels homing switches. I’d be happy to purchase one and give it a try. If I don’t like it I’ll go back to my audible ohm meter method :slight_smile:

No, homing switches aren’t needed. In fact I bought them for my XC but never bothered to install or wire them since they’re not true limit switches…

You’ll love the tool, it’s incredibly easy to use and once you do you’ll be hooked.

While you’re waiting on delivery, if you haven’t already, download the latest stable build of Universal G Code Sender and run it to make sure you can connect to your XC. I’ve found that the COM port will show busy if you have Easel open at all, so make sure to close it before trying to connect with UGS.

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Sign me up Charley! I’ll message you. After some recent zeroing issues Im sold. Perfect timing.


I sent you an email reply. Should be able to ship Monday.


Really cool! my x-carve isn’t fully assembled yet but it makes me think I am just wasting time wiring the limit switches ¬_¬ thanks for that… hahaha!

Your Positive lead that comes from pin A5 of the Arduino board always goes to the Touch Plate and the negative wire connect to any active ground and goes to the bit. Here is a wiring diagram.

Touch Plate Wiring.pdf (256.4 KB)

Hope this helps,


Limit switches are for breaking. Emergency Stop switches are for saving things.

The limit switches are actually homing switches. They won’t do a thing while carving if the get triggered.

Available Quantity is included at the bottom of the first post in this thread. Please scroll to the top for the latest info.


I’ll take that last additional one Charlie if it’s still available. Is there another wire or two I have to add to my Arduino setup. I have both the traditional controller and the X-Controller. What is the additional wiring needed for each. Message me for details and payment instructions.