Connect Zmin and ground https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfuDsyX3dSY
Chilipeppr add widget Super Touch Plate
I understand that but it is as you said a 3 axis touch plate and if its connected to just the zmin then will it still trigger for both X and Y as well? or do i have to connect it to all three do do so?
thanks for your help! your product is top notch! i will continue to research the issue!
In theory yes. That is what my G-code generator does. The only thing is the g-code commands for Tiny G. That is what I am not familiar with. My G-code generator creates g-code files for both standard GBBL g-code and Mach3 script. I just donāt know if either of those are compatible with the Tiny G.
well from my understanding, and i can be completely wrong, but that both tiny g and grbl are very similar. now i do know that chillipeppr does support the g38.2 command but my confusion is that there is no dedicated probe pin on the tinyg. it only has x,y,z,and a min and max pins. so i do understand that i need to connect the touch plate to the zmin pin, but that will only zero the z axis and not the x or y. so if i connect the probe to all three will it work properly or have any other negative affects on the whole zeroing process and or trigger any alarms requiring a reset of the tinyg. i guess ill just have to give it a try as soon as i get into my shop.
thanks again!
No need to connect to x and y
z is enough If Zmin switch config homing and Zmax limit only.
Zmin will detect the contact and stop at position.
It is not automatic after you have entered the position when the contact is detected.
Exemple:
G92 X0
G92 Y0
G92 Z0
G21
G38.2 X-12.7 F25 (The axis moves to your touchplate and stop)
And give you the position according to the width of the touchplate and the bit
G92 X51.4875
And the same for y and z axis G92 or according to your coordinate system
The G-code generator of Charley Help you It is a good job and works on tinyg
I hope i am clear my english is bad sorry
So how does the tinyg need to be configured, for the z homing/limit switch( I mean the configuration I the tinyg)
Hi @CharleyThomas,
I have tested your Excel spredsheet for calibrating the axis.
Iām using EstlCam to control my X-Carve and the normal settings is like this:
When measuring the Y-axis over 200mm, I found the travel to be 201mm, (0,5%), so when this is entered into Excel Iāll get:
This cange from 40 to 39,8 steps/mm actually incrised the distance even more.
I tried this formula in stead:
This decreased the distance very close to 200mm.
I have now tuned the steps/mm in EstlCam even more and now it is very close:
I will double check my calculations. It is possible that I have it reversed but nobody else has commented about that discrepancy. Thanks for the heads up though.
Charley
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At 40 steps/mm configured, to move 200 mm, you would be commanding 8,000 steps (40 * 200 = 8000).
Those 8,000 steps actually yielded 201 mm which means the steps/mm is now not 40 but some unknown (X). This yields the equation of:
201 * X = 8,000
Solving for X yields 39.8, which is your new steps/mm.
Where your equation is going wrong is that you are associating the unknown steps/mm (X) to the measured distance and it should be reverse. The unknown steps/mm should be associated with the ideal distance traveled.
40 / 201 = X / 200
Yes, but the strange thing is that this works??
40,1 is moving the bit mutch closer to 200mm than 39,8.
Strange??
Could it be something with EstlCams way of doing things?
1600 steps per revolution
40mm distance per revolution
Check your GRBL settings. If EstlCam has a console ability, issue a ā$$ā command and look at the values of $100, $101, and $102. Those settings are telling GRBL how to calculate the # of steps for a specified move.
Maybe by increasing that value in Estlcam, itās actually decreasing $100, $101 or $102 by the same equivalent amount (which would be odd).
What is the black ābaseā around the magnet mount?
There is a technical name for it but it is commonly referred to as Delrin.
Acetal and POM are also the same, Delrin is a brand name (DuPont)
Is there a specific reason for this part?
Couldnāt the wire be soldered directly to the rare earth magnet?
I understand that heat and magnets donāt playou well together but a quick solder I donāt think would hurt.
I wouldnāt want to risk weakening the power of the magnetic. There are moving parts and a magnet that wonāt hold is not a good thing. Plus it gives you something to hold when putting the magnet on and taking it off. Pulling on the wires is never a good idea.
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OK thanks.
I think Iāll give it a shot. Iāll try soldering to one magnet and then add another onto it and then heatshrink it all together.