I will check it when I get a chance but few days ago when I was doing this I did not see the problem. You picked random image I took to illustrate size on the 9mm idlers and you making assumption without seeing the right side V wheel. Nothing was bolted down or aligned at the time I took this picture.
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Iâve currently got this mod done using 4mm bolts, no change in washers required.
I have bought thinner washers so I can use 5mm bolts but I canât see any reason to do this, everything seems stiff enough right now. I really donât want to pull everything apart to change washers and then go through the entire alignment process AGAIN,
That is the advantage of this mod over the mod that uses the vertical steel or aluminum insert between the rails and bolted in. I think Phil is pointing out a potential issue with that approach. With the top and bottom clamp, the rails sit at the natural position on the v wheels and no other modification to washers or otherwise is required.
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Iâm aware of that, my post mentioned I was using 4mm bolts and therefore didnât need to replace any washers.
Those bushings are supposed to move. I see nothing wrong with putting about $10 dollars woth of hot glue between the slides with some tape underneath to prevent it from dripping out. Itâs hard enough dried to contribute to rigidity, but just soft enough to carve away with a knife or melt away with a hut glue gun should you ever need to disassemble.
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Sounds like you did exactly what I did. How is it working out? Mine has been rock solid so far.
I donât think that would give you the same rigidity as clamping the maker slides together, in what ever configuration. And a lot messierâŚ
Oh, I meant âin addition toâ, as a substitution for the T shape material dome people are fond of for this sort of mod. I already ordered my M4 60mm socket screws and lock nuts 
Looks great! Did you thread the bottom rail?
Yes, bottom rail holes are threaded. I figured that the less I had protruding below the bottom of the Makerslide, the better. I may have to enlarge the holes in the top bar a little to get a better fit, at the moment itâs a bit too tight.
So I hate to ask, but Iâm about to embark upon this mod.
Sounds like the âbar in the middleâ (60 min?) method will prevent issues if upgrading belts to 9mm, otherwise the âbars on top and bottomâ (30 min?) approach is just fine?
I thought I read the âbar in the middleâ mod might cause issues w\ v wheels seating correctly if the bar is too thick?
thanks 
My mistake, I was replying to the subject of this thread.
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The bar in the middle is not the â60 minute modâ. The 60 minute mod (see first post in this thread) does not change any of the spacing or require any other modification to the maker slide. The 60 minute mod is an enhanced version of the 30 minute mod. Its basically the same approach, but uses two bars to clamp down on the maker slides adding additional rigidity. There was a parallel thread going on which I think caused some confusion discussing the bar in the middle approach which can affect spacing. I guess I should have come up with a more clever name for the mod.
⌠got it, so the âtwo bar, over and under, screws down between the maker slides, paint it to match, wish I could powder coat itâ mod ⌠
is the way to go.
Iâm still OK if \ when I move to 9mm belts, right, I thought I saw something about the bar on top possibly impeding the idler pulley when moving to 9mm?
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If you are planning to change the belt size or modify any components inside the gantry, the â60 minute modâ has a bar on top so you will need to measure what modifications you are trying to do with the size of the bar you use to insure they are compatible. That said, I have found no need to change the belt size personally.
But I love the thought on the name change! Well done.
Did you find a good source for the M4x60mm socket screws? I canât find them that long locally, and most sites I have look at on line have excessive shipping cost.
Thanks, I just ordered some as well.