@NatalieSturdy
I’m not sure if I should continue to add notes here, but a few more suggestions I came across today:
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For full-run shelf pin holes, there’s no reason to have them at the level of a door hinge (if there’s a door hinge). I might be misunderstanding something, but even though the latest update seems to have (mostly) fixed the shelf-pin holes overlapping the door hinge holes, I realized I could save 8 holes per 2-door cabinet, or 4 holes per 1-door cabinet by manually deleting the upper and lower shelf-pin holes.
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Apparently you can’t edit the labels without losing formatting. If I name a drawer
B.13/Lf/Base 12 Left, it gets converted toB.13LfBase 12 Left. -
After assembling the first set of cabinets, I quickly realized the doors don’t have anywhere to rest if there’s a drawer at the top. Then I also realized an all-drawer cabinet doesn’t have anything behind the drawer faces, either. A relatively simple solution is to carry down the top stringers so they end up in the middle between a drawer face and/or door. These could also be made shallower, since they don’t need to be as wide as the top stringer, but the general idea is the same.
To make this easier for me (since I’m making these changes manually to 12 cabinets), I copied down the mortise for the top stringer, placing it 5-5/8" below the top stringer, then carried it the thickness of each drawer for multi-drawer cabinets. This should put the first “drawer stringer” (I don’t have a good term for it) about half of a 3/4" panel thickness below the first drawer face.
I then copied the top stringer, but deleted some points to make it a little shallower.
Here’s a picture of my modified drawer cabinet side & some modified stringers:
Here’s a picture of a modified drawer+door cabinet (also showing removed shelf pin holes):
I haven’t cut these out yet (hopefully I haven’t screwed up my math on any of them), but I thought I’d make the suggestion. Once I get some cabinets built with this change, I’ll post some photos.