So ends another day of learning… So, I have a job to do for a buddy and I thought this would the perfect opportunity to use the Oramask 813 I bought. The job is for a cabinet maker and he wanted something he could put on the counters of his finished projects for his pictures. Then when he showed his pictures his slogan would be right there.
Using Easel I made something up using an oval and a rooftop (Thanks Steve for the idea) and put his slogan in the middle leaving a pocket carve around it. For his approval I provided a picture of the “rendering” in easel using a black and white HDPE.
I got the thumbs up and got to gettin’.
I picked up a 2’ X 2’ sheet of .25 MDF, measured off a peice that was 20" by 13" and laid down 2 coats of Pure White Enamel paint and primer. I let that sit for 48 hours and sprayed 2 coats of clear laquer.
Once that dried for about an hour or 2 I stuck on the oramask, secured it to the workstation and got ready to carve.
Now, here is where I made my first mistake… I have not invested in a downcut 1/4 endmill. I really think this would have helped. My roughing pass made mince meat out of my oramask.
Once I was finished the roughing pass I attempted to put fresh oramask back on the parts that got messed up. This did not provide the wanted outcome. There were a couple pieces that stuck but the majority did not.
I still have to paint the back ground black and I don’t think it will that difficult. I figure I can just keep a damp cloth close by and be careful.
I wanted to share my journey with you and plan on adding to this thread as I learn more and do more with my new machine. I am learning a lot from trial and error and a lot more from this group. So consider this a small part of my contribution.
Thanks for reading, Drew
Thanks for sharing your experience, the sign turned out nice.
Looks good, I had some similar issues this weekend with the Oramask on another Charlie Brown Christmas. Damp cloth and patience is the key.
Hand painting this thing took forever!! I was able to wipe off the smudges using a damp towel but it took over 6 hours to paint. Next step is to paint the sides and the back white then spray with a couple coats of Lacquer.
That’s Why I use PVC for anything like this A lot less work involved and I feel a nicer project when complete
I wish I could find some in San Antonio. I am keeping my eyes open
Look at Home Depot, they sell it in 4x8 sheets.
Lowes is selling a 3/8" 8’ x 4’ sheet now, at my Lowes it is on a shelf underneath the PVC molding and trim boards
I checked the local and could not find anything
@AndrewHarris In the southern markets Home Depot and Lowes do not carry the PVC sheets. I found it at a local sign company. It’s more expensive but well worth it. It makes doing the projects so much easier.
Thanks Phillip - I will make some calls this week!
Phillip is correct in saying that the big box stores don’t carry PVC in the south (I live in Louisiana), I get mine from a sign supply store, Reece Supply Company, I looked on the internet and they have one in San Antonio Texas, give them a call.
Thanks for the info Russell - I will give them a call tomorrow!!
Alright!! I dusted off the X and made some stuff!! And I published my first project. I did a clock for a friend at work who is getting ready to have their first baby boy. Used the clock parts at Hobby Lobby and a Pine round at Home Depot. I also tested out my Frued keyhole bit (thanks Phillip for the video, I must have watched that sucker 100 times) I will be honest - I was a bit “scared” if you want to use that word. I was using some bits and techniques I had not used before and did not want to mess up and start over.
I started with some test cuts for the motor and the key hole. Got it right on the 4th try
Here I used 3 blocks to make sure my center did not move and mark on the bottom to make sure I referenced the same spot when I flipped it over for face carve.
This the motor pocket and the key hole
I used a 1/8 bit for roughing and waste removal and a 90* bit for detail
Your friend will love it.
New project is now complete for my mom. This is the second time I have used Oramask and the first time I got it to work. (first time was my fault and I had to many small letters.) The oramask worked like a champ!
2 stage carve
1 - 60* v-bit
2 - 1/4 upcut to cut out final shape.
Done in easel using accouple of the warp apps and the key hole app for the back.
Man this stuff really sticks!!
Ta - Daaaaa
Looks good, if you use a heat gun or hair dryer the oramask will come off easy.
Just a suggestion.
Did you put any type of sealer on the red oak before applying the ora mask?
Jan, yes I did. I sanded to 220 then put 3 coats of spray on lacquer and sanded lightly 1 more time to knock off any bumps.
Russell, thank you - I didn’t think of that