You could start with half a coconut. Half the price and half the height
If you can get some 1/4" or 6mm aluinum it will work just fine.
Here is a link to the DXF drawing of the long wide Y axis end plates.
I moved my pulley out. Just make sure you still have enough motor shaft to screw the little hex screws into.
I would imagine what really matters is where are the pulleys in relation to the belt. Yes the pulleys should line up, but the belt is in a fixed position, and the belt should have an easy transition on and off the pulleys, not be rubbing on the sides of the pulleys.
Agree with Andy.
In my assembly the pulleys are not flush with the shaft, they are offset by about 5 mm. That leaves plenty of space for the set screws.
Later in the instructions it should have you line them up if I remember right… the belt should end up running straight as you said. Make sure it isn’t rubbing on either side of the belt.
Yes, they instruct us first to align with the rod on motor and later on to align with the outer edge on the wheels. No problems to lock with set screws.
Does that mean your machine has cleared customs??
Yepp, the eagle has landed
Only thing you would lose that is on the pcb is the PWM and digital on/off for spindle control
I wish I’d thought to do something like that for the wiring when I built my torsion box.
All these great ideas AFTER I’ve finished making my bench …
I have a power board that I’ll mount under the bench for the computer/monitor and controller. The router power cord won’t be long enough so it will have to go in a wall socket which is mounted about 1.5 metres above the ground. I’ll also have to arrange power for the wireless router, another power board.
You’re right, all benches are a work in progress
On my torsion box, I used poly but not water based, something cheap I had on hand.
For the top though, it’s just waxed surface. I waxed one piece of the MDF for building the internal structure of the torsion box (glue doesn’t stick to wax) and decided it was too much trouble to clean off to apply poly.
I don’t expect any problems even though I live by the water.
Do you intend to measure the flatness of your torsion box? I’d be interested in how flat you’ve been able to make it.
As long as it’s relatively flat and your X-Carve is secured to it well in a few areas, you should be able to flatten your wasteboard and count on that being flat enough for your work. Use shims as necessary.
I built the first torsion box on a large bench (2400x1200) with a half sheet of 18mm MDF on top. I made the MDF level with shims. My second torsion box for a smaller CNC I have, is flat because I could use the first torsion box to make it.
While totally flat would be nice, I’m not sure that it matters (within reason) for the X-Carve. What you want there is nice stiff surface that won’t flex under use. You can always shim the X-Carve to level.
Speaking of shimming, I’m off to the CNC workshop to try and get the spoil board level.
Anymore update Angus???