I doubt the form itself sends confirmation emails. Probably just a simple way for John to have a google docs spreadsheet or something similar populated with data.
All I wonder is if I actually made it to the list. I would not be surprised if I messed up the form somehow. I’m good at that
Hang tight guys. I’ve been sick and getting back on my feet has been slower than I would have liked. Shannon, Jeremy, you are both on my list. Ebr, if your name is Endre, then yes, you are also on the list.
hello John
I’m planning to buy the xcarve, but i want to know if I can change motor spindle, for getting, more power and hopefully less noise, does your makita mount work for this request, 'm in Colombia but the package will be managed to boca raton, thanks in advance.
Not really. Just clamped John’s plate to the z-axis unit and checked several times for square. Then drilled through Johns plate with four holes leaving a mark on the bearing block on the z-axis. Countersunk the holes on Johns plate. Then drilled and tapped the bearing block. The holes through John’s plate are 1/32" larger than 1/4". This plus the countersink provides a minute amount of adjustment ability for squaring.
Mount it all up, loosen the four 1/4" screws, square it to wasteboard and tighten. Next I resurface my wasteboard with this setup checking for scalloping and fine tune squaring it up…
Oh and mounting the z to the carriage plate is easy. There are plenty of countersunk holes in the back. Again, clamp, square, mark the holes and then drill and tap the x-carve z carriage. These holes were also 1/4" so I used all 8 available. Slight differences in hole positioning among the 8 holes give you the ability to use only 4 screws, and experiment with which 4 give you the best squaring to the rest of the machine. The only down side is having to tap all 8 holes, but when you assemble it, you will be glad you have these options. Different screw patterns will square differently. I had to put a single card stock shim behind the lower part of the unit to square it front to back. I also used thread locker to mount John’s router clamps to the plate because those will be inaccessible once the unit is mounted.
Ok guys, I’ve sent the email to everyone I have on the list (12 of you). Reply when you can. Thanks for hanging in there. Its been a rough month or so, which I explained in the email.
@JohnScherer - Thanks. Can you do me a huge favor? What aluminum alloy are these made from? It machines so much better than 6061 and 3053 that I have been using. I am dying to get my hands on some.
This is my second post here. so consider me a newbie.
I started my first cuts yesterday. I assembled the makita router using cut HDPE as shown and clamp is with latches (bought off ebay). did this assembly as I use the router for other use so it will be handy to remove. I understand that this is not the most effective way to fix the router, but it is working for me now.
The latches are a great idea — I used an HDPE mount for a long while on my machines and it worked well. Currently setting up an aluminum mount which I bought on eBay though.