Best way to cut through 3/4 hardwood

I have been making sewing machine legs and tops for an Amish neighbor. Most of the cuts are all the way through the 3/4 hardwood. I have been using an 1/8 2 flute carbide straight bit. Because of this the edges require a fair amount of sanding to remove the router cuts. Today the Amish neighbor showed me some of the same pieces that were finished by a lumber company and the edges required very little sanding. They most likely are using a professional system. Can anyone give me some ideas on what I can do so the edges are cleaner? I use a new bit about every 4 hours of operation as I found the cutouts for hinges will be incorrect if I go much longer. I use X-Carve router bits. Would I be able to make deeper cuts using a 1/4 inch bit?

1/4 inch upcut bits should give better finish.
If you use vectric software you can do a final pass allowance that steps in desired amount so the final pass is full depth but just skim cut.

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Probably a much more rigid machine at play, in combination with better tools/ tool paths/optimized feed rate/rpm and properly trammed.

The latter (tramming) is easy to do and will have huge effect on deep cuts if your Z is not in tram.

Thanks for the replies. I have changed feed rates, trammed and aligned so it is much better than it was originally. In order to use Vectric I have to go to the pro version because these are 30 inches long. I am retired and this is occasional work so I don’t want to pay for Vectric at this time unless I see the need rise.This has given me an idea that maybe I can manipulate Easel to do the skim cut. Thanks.

I build guitar components. I am just wrapping up a basswood body and poplar neck. I use a 1/4" and 1/2" diameter straight bits all the time. I think your bit choices should be dependent on the detail you need to cut. The router can certainly move a 1/2" bit. Depending on the wood density you are using, you can just adjust your depth of cut and feed. This past time I tried a final clean up pass on the neck taking off just .005" which left a pretty nice result. My X carve has Y axis stiffeners, 2" Risers, the cnc4newbies Z axis, and 9mm belts and pulleys. Those upgrades really improved things.

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As I read your response I was just thinking a secondary carve at full depth for the skim cut.

I found a secondary cut half way thru the thickness worked best. I found the limitations of X-Carve on some interior pieces that have tabs. Where the bit raises and lowers for the tab it shows in the finished cut after the skim cut but the finish overall is better. Thanks for the help.