Hi
Instead of milling the extra holes you could use a special drill for these.
special drill din373
I use these, goes real fast and accurate.
Grtz Koen
@HaldorLonningdal
Good to know. Hopefully I won’t have to do this often 
@KoenVissers
Thanks. These have been mentioned one more time earlier in this thread. I’ll keep an eye for them.
For the time being, I have not encountered a problem milling pockets for screw heads, as these are both wide® and shallow(er), for example compared to the one that caused the problem above.
Sure thing Heat may come as a surprise so thought it would be a “nice to know” snippet
@KoenVissers
They look very nice, do these plunge trhough or require a predrilled pilot hole? The tip design seem to indicate the latter.
These would be very nice when a large number of holes need to be performed, for the occational use carving them out is no deal breaker. The key parameter for Easel is to go slow on the lunge rate, atleast in aluminium. 
Yes, a pilot hole is needed. Some of them include a “reamer” on the pin side of the counterbore bit. I just looked through my fathers toolchest and found a whole set of these from his machinist days. I was looking for something to assist in creating counter bores for my new CNC plates. They worked great in a drill press.
Z plate plus X ballscrew plus nut plus housing plus Z axis T nuts
on rail blocks
plus Z axis
sandwich side view
plus bearing blocks plus X motor coupler plus temp X plates
gantry, check.
5 Likes
I’m curious about the NaOH stuff. What is it and does it have a brand name and a place to purchase it. Thank you.
NaOH (sodium hydroxide) is commonly known as lye or caustic soda. Where I live I find this in a 1kg plastic bag with big red letters and a red skull.
For details and some commercial suggestions in the US check out this article which also points to this thread.
Is there something CNC related that Bob Warfield hasn’t written about? He’s reaching the one-man-encyclopedia status. Like what was Sheldon Brown for cycling.
When it comes to assembling, everything is so interlocked that the order is significant. Kind of like a Japanese puzzle box.
I took some time to try to visualize and note the steps down in order to prevent head scratching and doing & undoing in the future. Also because I forget. Also because we’re watching soccer tonight.
I will have to disassemble and reassemble at least once when the final X & Y plates are made. This is more of a note to self.
X & Z axis
ballnut to ballnut housing
ballnut housing to Z plate
Z axis mount screws to T nuts through Z plate
remove Z axis motor block
Z axis to T nuts
reattach Z axis motor block
slide Z axis right
tighten Z plate to Z axis bottom right screw
slide Z axis left
tighten Z plate to Z axis bottom left screw
FF to right X plate
FK to X ballscrew
spacer/collar/coupler to X ballscrew
support left X plate
FK to left X plate
motor & mount to left X plate
left X plate to gantry
right X plate to gantry
motor to coupler
support gantry (jack?)
X plates to Y rail blocks
Y axis
ballscrews to ballnut housings
FKs to Y ballscrews
spacers/collars/couplers to Y ballscrews
FKs to rear Y plates
motors & mounts to rear Y plates
measure/space ballnuts equally from FKs
slide gantry forward
position ballscrew behind X plates
slide gantry back & align to ballnut housing holes
ballnut housings to X plates
re-check spacing
rear Y plates to base (loose)
FFs to front Y plates
front Y plates to base (loose)
tighten Y plates
That is a great work breakdown structure, get yourself a big marker and celebrate every time you can erase one of the lines.
Making two left or two right sides is a possible problem that may occur. I prefer you do not ask me how I know. 
1 Like
It obviously happened to a close friend of yours.
Let’s plug the X axis motor and check out backlash. For reference, on my X-Carve’s X&Y axis it was 0.07~0.08mm.
On the B-Carve’s X axis is… drum roll…
My dial indicator must be broken. All it shows is zeros 
In reality it’s somewhere <0.01mm which is below my indicator’s reading accuracy.
5 Likes
Hey EP, In the first post, you mentioned you were trying to source the extrusions locally. Did you end up sourcing the bed extrusions locally or somewhere online? I can’t seem anyone who sells a 15x120 single V profile anywhere. Loving the top notch work so far!
Thanks, Brian.
In my case local is CNC CAT. In the US or the UK there is the option of Misumi as well (from 15x40 to 15x250). If I was to order from Misumi I would get the 15x250.
Maybe we should start a thread of online suppliers per country/region to use as a directory.
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Surprised that doesn’t exist with this community.
Part…Supplier Name…Website/Region…Price…Date Entered
That would be an incredibly helpful list so people don’t need to ask for every part in every forum.
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Gantry on Y blocks.
Dual Y’s.
Spacing them equally using the same length between the same two faces on each side. This is super important. Syncing them is what keeps X square to Y.
Gantry on ballnuts.
All motors plugged and tested.
1 Like
Hello World: The B-Carve is alive.
3 Likes
It’s more like B-Carve v0.90_beta at the current stage
It still needs
- limit switches
- drag chains
- wasteboard
- dust guards
- final X&Y plates
- final spindle mount