I’m a little terrified by fusion 360, carbide 3d etc mainly because Easel is idiot proof.
You’d be surprised at how simple 3D modeling programs can be. Especially once you realize that 95% of designs you see here would only require you to use a couple of tools. It would be easier for me to model your design in Fusion than in Easel. Easel does make it REALLY easy to generate toolpaths though.
I’ll give fusion another go, I should do really if I want to create better and improve.
I’ve gotta say this forum/community is incredible, it’s a huge plus for buying one of their machines.
Thanks for your wise words everyone.
You could do a two stage cut like this:
- Carve main diameter outline only, to almost full depth
- Use a chisel to break the center part off, it should snap easily
- Follow up with a finish pass/depth
Hi, I am weighing a little late but!
I don’t have an X-carve, my machine is lead screw but I use Easel. I mainly cut hardwoods and I use an 1/8" bit 98% of the time. The .125 but will only cut .0625 or less or 1/16th so if the holes are 1.38 it will take 23 passes. At .0625 plunge it will take 270+ passes. That is why it will take so long. Therefore changing to a .25" bit will cut the time in half. With a 1/8" bit my speeds in maple are 25ipm for both feeds and plunge and I get a nice cut and not to stressful on the bit. As others have said you will need to take a few practice runs to see what the machine and bit will take. But slower = nicer cut and faster = rougher cut. Maybe you could post the gcode and someone could run a simulation? And explain what the project is so there can be a variety of methods discussed. I am a woodworker by trade and somethings are just better done in the shop with regular tools! Cheers!
Hi Adam.
Sorry for coming in late to this discussion and I agree with others here that a little trial and error might be needed.
I use Easel but not a Carvey - I have an Italian made MakerDreams tabletop CNC machine.
I carve a lot using 3mm oak sheets to make shields and other items and when I started i broke bits all the time. I found out that I need to really slow down the feed rate and the depth per pass needed to be shallow.
The software controlling my machine allows me to set the speed of the motor and again through trial and error I have found that the faster the better.
Now I have a very good idea of what settings I need depending on the type of project I am making.
Easel now has a Hole Drilling setting which only goes up and down, maybe you could get a flat-bottomed router bit - Forstner style bit - that is slightly smaller than your finished size and then use Easel to make a path that is not a fill but on the Inside of path to that will finish off your holes to the finished size and depth. That should really speed up your project, ok you need to change bits and on one project I made I had 4 different paths and 3 different bit changes to create the finished item. All done in 1 hour but at the beginning with on path and 1 bit Easel told me 3 hours 30mins. Not practical.
Hope you get things right and make your finished Egg stands.
Here’s the finished piece. Found the centre of the holes, used a large flat wood bit to remove majority of it all. Then used a 1/4 inch router bit to finish off the outer section of the circles and the step at the bottom. Had the speed up to 150% (might have been more), never a problem with a thick bit, no burn or any other problems.
Took about 15-20 mins in the end.
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Nice!
Did you do the V Carve on the side before glue up?
Yes, it wouldn’t have fitted, fully glued it’s 4" wide.
I still don’t see that option during a carve. Do I need to download something?
You need the latest version. I think it’s 1.1f
It’s at the top and middle, + and -. It appears once you start carving.
Thank’s I will check it out.