Hello,
Sorry for not searching first but i don’t know exactly what to search for .
But how can i carve this with out it taking 4 hours and still getting all the detail?
It looks like the 1/32 bit is needed to get all the detail but what bit should i be using to cut everything else out??
Are there special bits for this type of cut?
Thanks
Search “two stage carve”
You’re welcome.
Personally I would forget the 1/32" bit. Way too fragile for me! As suggested, you need a V-bit. I would think a 30 degree but you might get away with a 60. Isolate the eagle (finest detail) and use some scrap to make test cuts to find the depth of cut that yields what you want. With the V bit the deeper you cut the wider the cut gets so experiment. If the 60 won’t work at the DOC you want go to a 30 - it will cut a narrower line.
Once that is decided I would then cut in layers. Do the “Miller” as a separate cut/layer. I would use a 1/8" end mill. If the inside corners aren’t sharp enough to suit you, do a two stage cut with the 1/8" for roughing and a 1/16" for finish.
Then use another layer for just the smaller graphics. I would do another 2 stage carve using a 1/16" as roughing cut and the V bit for the finish. Your DOC for both would be the depth you decided on in the first step.
You will want to simulate the carve and note at the time needed for the two stage cut and then change it to a single stage with just the V bit. Sometimes there is not much time saved with the 2 stage and you could just use the V bit. But my guess on this design is the 2 stage will save you a little time.
I still learning too but that is how I would go about it.
When you say rough cut then finish cut do you mean the Bit then the Detail Bit??
What i think would work is if it allowed me to use 3 different bits. Even with a v bit the detail doesn’t show on all the icons ( Grill guy). I also like to look of it more with the straight cuts. im only trying to go .15 in deep on a .5 in board.
Is it possible to use 3 different bits?
it would take 7 to10 Hours to cut this.
Remember also that every bit has a set cutting length. I believe most 1/32” only have a 1/8” cutting length.
Perfect thanks
When you use smaller bits you really have to slow the feed down. Also make sure your DOC is small and that the working surface is flat and 90 degrees to your spindle. If one side is higher Than the other it will offset your DOC and cause the bit to cut deeper on one side. This is how I broke 4 of them.
There are several tuts out there for leveling. The most important thing is this The X and Y should be as square as you can get. Then the Z should be 90 degrees to your X and Y and not the waste board. Once the system is set up you can use a surface bit and fix the wasteboard. Once everything is as flat as you can get then using those smaller bits gets easier and lest prone to breaking.
Don’t use them on plastic unless they are meant for it. I made the mistake of doing that and that’s how I broke one. Plastic bits are usually single flute. Carbide for wood. HHS(Hight Speed Steel) for aluminum.
You can use the small bits for clearing areas the larger ones can’t do. I use a 1/32 bit for that on small coin looking pieces I have done. If I just use a V-bit then it would take longer to do the project.
One of the things you have to do is evaluate your job. Consider what will take less and be more successful and quality of course. Experience will help you after a year you will get better. Also Phil is a invaluable resource. He has helped many and myself many times over. I think people like him and others make this forum great.
BTW I am new and have only had my system for about a year. I rarely break bits now and I can do a lot of cool things I didn’t think I could before. Great stuff.
