I’d like to see the truck that hauled it!
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Yeah, I noticed that and posted a comment about it a while back on the page where they have all the drawings for all the parts, and it was corrected there, but I guess the updated drawing was not linked to the page for just the waste board itself.
Do you have the link to that page?
Here is a link to an SVG, EPS, and even a SKP I made this evening. This is for the 1000mm X-carve and is measured correctly and thoroughly.
SVG:
Sketchup File
Gotta build my own as well!
Good luck everybody!!
Kalvin
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If that doesn’t work, try coming in through this link and going to PDFs and then 30300-03.pdf for the 1000mm board. All of this is linked from the main Inventables page at the bottom under the Open Source section.
Not sure if this is worthy, but:
Also, for those thinking of ‘sealing’ their MDF, I really wouldn’t bother. Our space has a 5x10’ CNCR that is in a fairly humid environment for over a year and the waste board looks just fine. MDF only seems to take on water when it is sitting in it. If I were to have an issue, I’d level the waste board again with a surfacer endmill.
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Just about every sheet of mdf I have purchased from the B.O.R.G. (Big Orange Retail Giant) has shown some minute swelling in relation to the edges and the center on the order of 3-5 thousandths.
I suspect this is caused by the sheets being stacked and only the edges are exposed to the environment to absorb moisture and the edges are raw or open grained from the cutting to size process, Whereas the faces are somewhat burnished and sealed during manufacture.
Not a biggie in terms of case constructon or general woodworking but it could be cause for consternation as a work surface for a cnc machine.
On my machine I cut a pocket in the wasteboard about 3/8" deep over the entire cutting area to accept a secondary mdf wasteboard that can be changed out easily when it gets too chewed up from use.
When I installed the primary board I ran a 3/4" routerbit in my spindle to level the bed and did the same when the secondary was installed.
Both times the MDF was slightly thicker at the factory edge.
By running a leveling pass, I am assured that the bed of the machine is dead parralel to the x and y axis’s regardless if anything else is out of whack.
I lose a little bit of z clearance but havent had any issue there and if the need arises that I do need more clearane for an operation, I can remove the secondary board.
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Hello,
How many of millimeters (measure French) equal MDF 3/4" ?
I order my X-Carve without wasteboard, it was too expensive for the shipping France
Thanks you very much.
I used 18mm MDF for my spoil board. They don’t make 19mm (3/4"), at least not in Australia.
OK thank you.
In France, they do not 19mm (3/4 ")
There is no problem with the 18mm? No Additional adjustment?
no problem with 18mm mdf. You gain an additional 1mm of z travel but that is the only difference.
Ok,
Perfect.
Thanks
I am looking at the installation instructions at:
and it looks like they just use the width and height of the wasteboard as the only way to determine the width and height of the frame. Would this step be much harder without a wasteboard?
It looks like step 13 could be done WITHOUT the wasteboard present, is this correct?
My thought was to have a place like home depot cut the MDF and to add in the wasteboard AFTER the machine is fully assembled. Is this a mistake? Does the wasteboard need to be ready with all the mounting holes drilled for step 13? I know the holes used for the threaded inserts could be added anytime.
I drilled/cut as there is no pecking code for a drill on my x-carve and I also attached it after mine was put together.
I made my own “blank” wasteboard (it had mounting holes, but no clamping holes) before step 13, my rationale was that this step uses the wasteboard as a square reference. But that also means that you’ve got to KNOW that the wasteboard you made it square - check by measuring across diagonals and making sure they’re the same.
I guess it could be done later, but then you probably want to verify square and then loosen all the connectors and line the rails up to the edge before tightening them again.
I will be making my own waste board in the next week or two. I decided to apply the cost of the factory waste board to a $30 piece of high density board, a couple packs of insertion nuts, and a 2.8w laser kit.
Figured I will use the laser for other projects in the future.
Here’s the plan:
- Cut the MDF to 39 3/8" x 38 1/4" to clear the v wheels (3/4 inch board) - DONE
- Drill mounting holes and mount it to the machine.
- Use the X-Carve to drill the holes for the insertion nuts modeled in Easel.
- Use the laser to print/engrave the gridlines and a custom logo on the board.
I find the gridlines very valuable on the factory waste board, and using the laser will provide an accurate 0,0 origin and gridlines. I have a 500mm upgraded X-Carve already.
It will be a good crash course in the 1000mm machine and operating the laser.
I’ll be in touch soon.
-David
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great to hear you are ready to get the waste Board done on the xcarve, the laser is a great extra and will be great for the markup of the waste board.
I was one of the first to order the xcarve after the availability of the machine. Sadly I had to cancel the order 5 weeks later as a financial disaster happened to my Daughter, she went bankrupt and I got the burden of paying her debt.
Now the cost of the US to Canadian $$$$$, is not allowing me to achieve the goal of ordering my Xcarve and the laser kit required to “get it done”
Looking forward to seeing the results of your work.
Neal Shafto
If Zach is nice enough to do the Black Friday deals again this year then that might be the time to get most of the machine purchased. Helped me a lot last year. Takes longer but you can piece the machine together at your pace. Sorry to hear about your situation but family is everything.
I ordered my X-Carve last week and due to the shipping to Canada and the exchange I am going to make my own waste board. I drew it up in SketchUp, exported to a DXF, converted to a SVG and it looks good in Easel so far. I will try to attach the files if anyone wants to look at them or has any comments. This would be cut from the back with the bevels being just flat recesses. I will have to do the front recesses by hand and I’m sure some of the holes that are outside of the limits. The mounting slots and clamp holes interfere at the bottom, can anyone with an actual waste board verify this? You will have to scale the x/y dimensions in Easel as they get lost in the conversion for some reason.Waste Board.dxf (1.3 MB)Waste Board.svg.zip (119.2 KB)