Hi guys started my carving on my XCarve. I have an original piece that I took measurements of and traced it via Inkscape and everything “Seems” to be perfect, even when I exported the SVG into Easel it seemed fine. It cut flawlessly but the dimensions are off on the actual product by about 2-3mm. Original piece was 78mm wide but I measured it at about 75-76mm only. I tried using 1.8mm bit at first and with my smallest at 1.3mm, that’s when it jumped to 76mm. When I put the original piece over the cut out, the cut area matches (i didn’t cut through since it was my practice cuts on MDF). So to sum it all up, the cut out piece is smaller than the original. How would I come about to fix this? Thanks guys for the help in advance.
What path are you using inside outside or on path? What size bit and material are you using
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Check @PhilJohnson help tutorials.
One of them shows how to export from Inkscape to easel with perfect sizing.
It’s about exporting to a know size and then in easel down sizing to correct size.
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it’s using outside. ONLY that main outside cut is off, everything inside is perfect spot on so I don’t think it’s the machinese calibration. I highlighted the outside edge and it does not even give me an option to show the FILL or OUTLINE feature. All the other holes within the design gives me that option!
Thanks I will check him out! Do appreciate it very much with the quick response guys!
Usually a sign of an incomplete design aka not a full circle or fully closed design.
Check for an open leg somewhere.
In Inkscape it will highlight each section in red and fully closed will be fully red throughout.
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Thanks again! I was 99% sure I closed the design on Inkscape because I can “Fill” a color within. BUT then I did remember a few points after I exported to Easel, I had to manually close it which was odd. Now I know that’s the problem! And now I redid that outer piece and can select outline feature. The original seems to be stuck “ON PATH” since I see the blue thin line in between the black thicker line. It’s a bit confusing and still trying to absorb this new hobby!
Is super helpful.
@PhilJohnson I noticed that nearly every issue ppl have I can almost always say look up @PhilJohnson help docs.
U rock 
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Can I bookmark you @PhilJohnson ? OK my design seems to be good now so another problem occuring. Trying to cut acrylic plexiglass 2mm. Had setting on router to 3 and selected CAST ACRYLIC with 0.2mm DOC (0.5mm was recommended and I just sliced that in half). Then I saw the melted ball from the first hole it try to make. Too fast on the Dewalt’s #3 setting? Used cheap eBay 2flute carbide bits. It handled MDF fine but not seeing chips! P.S how to remove this clunk? Oh Boy!
yeah, it’s really too fast, even on “1”
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how about plunge rate? default seems to be:
Feed Rate: 25 in/min
Plunge: 9 in/min
Depth: 0.02 in
I have some leftover 2mm extruded acrylic plexiglass, whatever that is to experiment on before my G10 FR4 comes in this week. Can you shed some light on those settings as well. I want the best possible quality as it’s got to look good on a model vehicle. Thanks for the wonderful advices gents!
Just keep your speed (ipm) as high as possible and rpm as low as possible. So if you need shallower passes to accomplish it do that.
And keep the path clear of shavings or it will reheat and melt, clog the flutes and then its all down hill from there.
I used move at 150 ipm but at a loss of accuracy. Recently i did 50ipm @.1doc but im on screws not belts.
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Is it possible to add a peck-drill code to the initial plunge when working with acrylic?
I always used to have an air line set up directly on my endmills when milling any kind of plastic to help blow the chips away immediately. The smaller the diameter of your cutting tool, the greater chance of it sticking in the flutes and causing a melt situation.
I did find in the past (keep in mind, this is 20 years ago on a 3-axis mill) that sometimes I had to do a peck drill to clear the flutes before I could begin a cut, with smaller diameter tool bits.
I need to get my machine together and running with a few jobs i guess. Just so i can see how the code is configured.
My personal experience with code allowed me to return to the start of a cut before the next plunge cut. Admittedly, this was nearly 20 years ago and I didnt have the use of a cam system.
Would Easel understand the code for a peck drill or ramp plunge command? I was just spending some time with Estlcam and the tutorial videos. They mentioned the ramped/angled plunge cut as an option.