okay fella’s, I’ve just had my second DeWalt 611 fail. It just quits running. I had the first one do this about 4 months ago, purchased another and it quit today! Anybody have a recommendation for a reliable router to use with this machine?
Probably just need new brushes. I have not heard of the Makita’s burning through brushes like the Dewalt. But I have only had mine for six months. Brush replacement takes about 5 minutes. There is a video on the forums. Order two sets so you can repair both routers. Then you will have a spare.
I changed brushes today, I had 9 months on this set of brushes, I run the router on speed 1 or 2 only.
The Bosch PR20EVS Colt™ variable-speed palm-grip router puts routing power and precision in the palm of your hand. The PR20EVS has an ergonomic palm-grip design with softgrip to make it very comfortable to hold, yet it also has ample power, making it typically easier to use than larger routers. It’s more than a just a laminate trimmer, as it is the ideal tool for putting roundovers on deck railings, mortising for hinges, slot cutting, and much more. The motor features soft-start, a variable-speed control, and Constant Response™ circuitry to maintain speed under load. The PR001 fixed base features macro- and micro-fine depth adjustment. The PR20EVSK also includes a self-releasing 1/4" collet chuck, comfortable forged bit-changing wrenches, edge guide and a case.
Includes
(1) – PR20EVS Motor
(1) - 1/4" Self-Releasing Collet Chuck - 2610008122
(1) - 17 mm Collet Wrench - 2609110438
(1) - 10 mm Shaft Wrench - 2609110786
(1) - Fixed Base – PR001
(1) – Straight Edge Guide – PR002
(1) - Carrying Case
I just ordered a 4 pack of brushes from Amazon for less than 17 bucks. I don’t need them yet, but it sounds like with the Dewalt it’s just a matter of time. When the time comes I’d rather be looking at them than for them.
Thanks fella’s for your responses!
Yerp, they eat brushes. Fortunately, they’re quite cheap and really, really easy to change. About 100 hours of use is the rough approximation for lifespan that goes around. When in doubt, swap 'em! I’d almost bet money that’ll bring the router back.
I am currently running on speed setting 4 which is 22,600 rpm.
I just can’t get a good surface finish out of those low speeds in wood, man. I run mine in the 3-5 range pretty much constantly, and generally with great results.
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okay there, 1.5 - 5, take your pick. I’ve been running at 4 will lower to 3 to split the difference and just see how it goes!
I never move mine from the 1 setting, and as long as I have a sharp bit I’m happy with the finish. I mostly do outline cuts however, some pockets, but no carving yet.
@DanBrown I wonder if feed speed would then be a factor. I suppose you could theoretically get a good finish with any rpm so long as you had your feed speed and DOC matched accordingly–right?
Theoretically, yeah, for wood what really matters the most is numbers of cuts per inch. So you could easily accomplish the same by just slowing down your feed.
I guess the way I’m looking at it is that these are routers, and router bits. They are intended to be used at very high RPMs in the 25-32k range, at hand-feeding speeds which vary a lot. I’m still getting nice, clean chips out of mine instead of dust, with not the slightest sign of burning or bit heating, so I’m thinking all is still just fine. It makes for nice, clean finishes on the cut parts, as I’d expect from a router, and I find it to be a lot smoother in operation as well. At least with a two-flute bit.
My X-Carve doesn’t like anything that’s even SLIGHTLY asymmetric. I have an In-Groove V-cutting tool for example that vibrates like crazy if I try to spin it up more than about 2 on the speed dial, even though it’s rated for full speed.
Yeah, I definitely think the bits and spindles could take more, but we are restricted by the rigidity of the x-carve.
After beefing up the gantry I have been gradually testing my speeds. At the first setting on the router I am getting a good cut on hard maple with a 1/4" up cut spiral at 45 in/min and .05 DOC. Any faster and the cut is a bit rough. I wonder if increasing the rpm would change this. It’s worth trying out.
I’m cutting at about 60ipm and .125 deep with the same bit, myself, and getting a very nice, smooth cut. The router doesn’t sound like it’s laboring at all, maybe just a slight bit of load.
Wow! What type of material? And are you carving or cutting a line?
Pocketing, for the most part, in walnut, maple, and cherry. The two normal profiles I use are for line-cutting with full engagement, I’ll run about .125 deep and 40-60ipm at max speed on the router. For pocketing, it’s a .125 stepover, .250 deep, at 60ipm for roughing. The finish pass on both will generally be a .020 cut made at max depth, usually about 40ipm give or take a little. I’m using a two-flute freud. I use the same speeds and feeds with a .060 stepover for a 1/8" bit in a pocketing operation. I get nice, clean chips from the cuts, not dust, so I know my bit isn’t rubbing, etc. I figure these are ROUTER bits, meant to spin at very high speeds in wood. I tend to be unsurprised when they work very well doing so.
It’d be SUICIDE to use this kind of out-of-optimal feed and speed strategy on metals, but for wood it seems to work extremely well for me.
WELL FOLKS, HERE WE ARE AGAIN. THE SAGA OF THE DEAD ROUTER HAS ENDED AS THIS VIDEO WILL SHOW. ENJOY!
THE FOLLOWING VIDEO IS TO INFORM YOU OF CHANGES TO MY VIDEO’S.
Here’s a test carve video I did using my new Camcorder in the CNC room!