Wow, I can’t believe I haven’t heard of the Super-PID. Having 5,000 to 30,000 RPM control on my 611 would be tremendous. I’m sure we’d all be very interested in seeing some test cuts/ video, if you have some extra time.
$155 for Super-PID, no thanks I’ll pass. Never need it. Dewalt speed dial is very accurate.
One of the issues with the stock speed dial is that it’s rated for 16 to 27 thousand RPM. I’m no expert, but even 16,000 seems high for plastics. I intend to do a lot of polycarbonate and acrylic stuff, so I have interest in a high quality PID controller that works all the way down to 5,000.
EDIT: Nevermind; I just looked it up and it seems that 16k is plenty slow for acrylics. What materials would having RPM control down to 5k actually be useful for?
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I can understand if you need to be precise, I personally just don’t need it. If I start melting Plastics, increase feed rate, drop speed and depth as much as possible. Only takes test drive on waste pieces. Same thing for G-Wizard. I purchased 3 years licence for it, worthless. It’s nothing more than Icon on my desktop. Nothing matching with my belt driven sensitive Lady Bug. I broke 1 bit, burned two straight flutes. I’d rather categorize the materials I’m using, start making nice chart by the experiment. It’s up to people want to spend on so called high tech toys. I completely respect Nathan.
I wonder if it would be very useful for aluminum? I know aluminum is pretty “gummy” and heats up quickly, so intuition tells me a lower RPM and higher feed rate would be better.
EDIT: Yeah, it’s looking like Aluminum could really benefit from speed control down to 5k RPM. Machinist forums are talking about running aluminum cuts with 4800 RPM and lower. I’d be concerned about trying to cut aluminum at 16k RPM.
Certain materials if heating up with rapid cut, it is better idea to slow friction by lowering the speed and running faster before area start getting heat I believe. I also increase safety clearance on plunge, every cycle, bit rises more, yes loosing time but that time lets bit to get a little cooler.
Aluminum cutting with G-wizard recommendation might work I never try cutting aluminum. But you may be correct, because wizard starts with default for hard metals. Besides X-Carve and Aluminum…nah.
I checked Aluminum cut parameters, it is showing 4800 RPM on .5" bit with feed rate of 47 IPM. So Multiply with 2 makes about lowest RPM on Dewalt more or less, then use 4 flute cast cutting bit, it is around $18 on internet.
My main motivation for getting the SuperPid was maximizing flexibility with a greater range of speeds and also better speed control. From what I can tell so far, the SuperPid is a very well made product. I just wish it was open source.
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When you get time, I would love to see some pictures of your setup. I honestly have no need for that amount of speed control (yet), but I find it very interesting. Thanks
My spindle stop working(getting stocked, needs finger help to run again)
I di have new 611 and ordered mounting and so on.
Now my Q is: do I really need all relay staff?
can I just live 611 as is and use manual on/off button on dewalt?
That’s all I’m doing. It works fine.
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I have my DeWalt and my dust collection shop vac both connected to an extension cord with a switch, that way it’s harder to accidentally forget to turn one of them on.
I have my Dewalt and my security camera both connected in same relay, because I don’t hear or see my wife coming down to Basement when Dewalt kicks on… 
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That was a joke.
In reality answer to your question, yes you have to have Relay to activate your dewalt auto. Because one way or other you will forget to turn on before sending job then break your bit. That’s very common mistake. Inventables sells Relay with heat sink on it and not that expensive, if you compare with broken bit and wasted wood. Here is the picture showing how easy to connect relay to your Dewalt in case you need it.
I see what you saying, makes sense 
Thank you Alan, I love your posts, very helpful
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I had the same problem. Spindle would power up when I switched it on from the toggle switch, but would not run on the logic setting. Realized after lots of fussing, that I had swapped the yellow and black wires where they connect into the power supply. Check it, because, in my opinion, there is some ambiguity in the instructions on this. I was sure I had done it right the first time.
@AlanDavis can the shaving of the dewalt be prevented in any way? Such as putting washers or spacers in between to push it out further? Or is it simply a height issue by raising it up higher in the mount? Looking for a few more details to try and mount in a non-destruct manner
I don’t think you can use any spacers, might change the angle. Shaving is not a big deal. There is nothing behind. If you make one clean cut, you’re good to go. Believe me I was feeling bad as well, but when you start using Dewalt as spinner, you won’t be taking that out again. It’s lovely operation.
Yeah, just a couple of seconds on the belt sander to just smooth down an edge and you’re good to go. It still looks fine and you’d have no problem using it outside of your X-Carve.
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Yeah, it is not very much you have to take off. I spray-painted mine black afterwards. 
I don’t expect I’ll be taking it off the x-carve.
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