Jeff, I have been up and down the ipm scale already. It seems the faster I carved the more junk was left behind, the slower speed was an attempt at having a cleaner carve. Yes I have used 1/4" bits, 1/8" bits and 1/16" bits with similar results from all of them. No easel doesn’t tell me what to do specifically, just me experimenting with different speeds to see what gives the best results.
Many programs are free on the net. FEngrave one of them. I’ll search more today and post links to you. I know another learning curve for different programs but this is the way it works. Any free engraving software and UGS will work what you need for signs.
I am sorry James, when I was looking at your video on my phone last night it looked like one of the passes in the rough cut was offset to the right. I just looked at it again on my computer monitor and saw that was not the case.
So it was not missing steps after all. My bad.
James,
If I may suggest another test? I don’t use Easel or an X-Carve (I have a Shapeoko2), but I hope the following will help.
Set up a dual carve project with your 1/4 bit for the roughing pass, but also use the same 1/4 bit for the finishing pass.
When the roughing pass is done, remove the bit as you normally do as if changing to a 1/8 bit, but reinsert the 1/4 bit and rezero as you normally do. Start the finishing pass, and if all is OK, it should engrave exactly as the roughing pass without removing material.
If it does this successfully, then I think this should eliminate any machine problems and indicate a software setup problem when using two different sized bits.
John
Well guys, I’ve shown a couple of completed projects here as requested and I’ve also got up on my high horse soap box so to speak. sorry if I offend anyone.
Nice video again (as usual). I for one, and others here on the forum do not intend to belittle you or anything like that. We are just trying to help, but if it comes off little harsh sometimes, my bad. Just trying to get a clear picture so we might know what to suggest to help with the problems your having. OK, now on another note. I don’t think I have seen or heard what bits you are using. up cut, down cut, 1, 2,3 flute, straight or spiral. I think this information would give us all a better insight to help you with your problems.
Jeff, none taken, basically I am using what came with my x-carve and I believe they are all up cut bits, 1/8" flat and round bottom. I also purchased one 1/4" bit from Lowes for the 611. It also is an up cut from the way it flings stuff around.
Zach, the last video carving was done with the 1/8th in and 1/16th in bit from inventables 5 bit pack. I believe my last depth of cut was at .020 inch and 20 imp.
How many flutes does it have?
What depth per pass are you using?
Zach, believe answered above, seems we are overlapping each other.
Sorry, Can you please post a picture of it. The flutes are the cutting edges. I’m not sure which of the 5 bits in the pack you are referencing.
Also do you know what setting for RPM you have the 611 on?
will get that info for you tomorrow.
Zach, Hope this is the information you requested in this video I made just for you to view.
Keep in mind my experience comes from working in my metal shop and until I got the X carve I never used wood to build anything.
If you are getting significantly different results at higher surface speeds than slower I would have to guess your steppers aren’t getting enough power and are missing steps. Higher speeds require more power as the forces involved with changing direction are impacted by the speed. Do you have access to a cheap multimeter so you could check the voltage going to your steppers.
The paper method for setting your tool position works ok, I have used it myself on my Cnc mill but it certainly couldn’t be called precision. I’m my metal shop I used either cigarette rolling papers or the paper that phone book pages are made from. If you have a phone book and a vertical bandsaw, cut the spine off the phone book leaving a couple of inches of paper attached. Then you can cut that into smaller books of paper that will last a lifetime. The thinner the paper is, the less chance you have of messing up the z height. You develop a feel for setting hieghts this way, if the paper gets caught tight and can’t be moved your to low, the paper needs to have the same amount of “drag” on each tool. When I am close to the paper I am moving the cutter down .001" at a time.
A touch plate is easy to make, I plan to make one next weekend and would be happy to make another and send it down your way free of charge. I need a thinner plate to fit under my 3D printed dust shoe so these will probably be 1/4" thick. if you would like one send me a pm with you mailing address and I’ll pop it in the mail to you.
Cheers
Shawn
Shawn, thank you, that is a very generous offer but I will wait for inventables to come out with their touch plate. I’ve got plenty of single carving to do in the mean time. Thanks again.
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James, As nice as the new touch probe from Inventables is (and it is really nice), the method you are using with trapping a piece of paper under the bit can get you within .006 inch (or better) accuracy of the surface of your material.
Using the touch probe is faster and gives better repeatable. But it is not that much more accurate.
The only reason I mention this is because if you are thinking the touch probe will “fix” your dual carve problem I am afraid you will be disappointed.
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Allen, you have the inventables touch pad? I didn’t know it was available yet?
The fine folks at Inventables sent me one with the X-Controller I am testing.
The X-Controller makes it very easy to connect a touch probe to the X-Carve.
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He’s beta testing the X-Controller, and as an option it comes with the touch pad.
I too am testing the touch pad and it is pretty good. Way way better than my home made version. And before you ask, no Easel doesn’t support it yet, we are just testing it with UGS and ChiliPeppr.
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