I am trying to create a zero clearance cut for my table saw. I drew the design in Photoshop, created the paths with Inkscape into a SVG. When I import into easel is doesn’t import with the right dimensions. When I create in 300dpi in Photoshop is it massively big and when I import into Easel with a design at 72 dpi it is too small.
I don’t see where I can enter the exact dimensions. Just resize it with the mouse.
Thanks Angus!
One last issue. Looks like when I select outline it wants to carve inside the image as well. Might be the way of the endpoints were put in under the svg file.
http://easel.inventables.com/projects/hGMJrt6VDUV1LQie7XtE5g
It looks like when you imported it, it created a solid space rather than a single line. If you zoom in, you will see that there is actually two lines in your shape. When you choose the cut menu you can select edit points which will then show you all the nodes in the object. Select and delete all the nodes on the inner ring. That will get you down to single line that you can size for your saw, and cut on the outside.
Don’t forget, that you should flip it over and cut a recess into the bottom to allow clearance for the blade to fit into when you insert it. If you don’t, the blade will interfere with putting the insert into the table.
Thanks! I imported as a solid image and then used easel to do the outline. Last time I imported as just the outline and I think that is why it caused the double line there. Thanks for the help.
From my limited understanding, the zero clearance goes into the opening, then I secure it along the side with the fence and a piece of board clamped down, then I turn on the blade and slowly rise it through the zero clearance. Its an older table saw and does not have a cutter/splitter. That said, I will be getting one of those MJ splitters to add to the design once I have the design down.
This is how you do it. However, at least on my saw, the blade sits to high, even when lowered all the way. It will hit the your insert plate. Most blades, only sit about 1/8-1/4" below the table top. The recess cut in the back allows clearance for the top of the blade. Here is a picture of the back of my zero clearance plate.
Got it. I have no riving knife (saw is 1980s Jet JTS-10) but will be adding some of those MJ splitters, via a kit, once I have the design nailed and I carve up several of these. I will be adding the holes as well once I have the first demo version done (just to size). Be nice to actually make something instead of buying something!
That can work @AngusMcleod and is a solution. The problem with it though, is that the width of the kerf will likely be different. All of my 7-1/4’ blades are rough construction grade while I mostly use thin kerf saw blades on my table saw.
For me, when I am working with some brittle woods, I want the “Zero” clearance as tight as possible.