also you are using easel to program correct?
you can tell when its entering the material it fix but as soon as it moves in the y-axis you are loading up that tool
you really need to ramp into the material using a lead-in that works better for low hp machines or zig-zag ramp into the material
and also in the corners you are loading up the tool
when you start running your x-carve at those levels you need to start and think about moving away from easel and into something like Fusion 360
Yeah, that doesnāt sound healthy. Looks like the XC motion is keeping up and stable, but that cutter isnāt happy.
If it sounds worse than it was before, might have pitch buildup on the cutter. If so, soak it in oven cleaner.
Iām using Fusion 360, in the video it uses a helix ramp. I was thinking of enabling feed optimization for the corners.
and its not insane lol
on a router like that without a varible frequency drive you have almost no hp at the lower rpms I know the router is rated at 1.25hp but thats only at the full bore rpm setting
so you need to turn up the rpms and when it goes into the material it will bog down to the correct rpm to maintain chipload
but thats the problem with routers is your have no control over that its all a guessing game
all you can really down is let her scream , give her hell,and hold on when it comes to rpm lol
you can buy a speed controller I think its called āPIDā but you dont gain much hp what you really need is a spindle with a vfd to have full control
oh yeah you do not want to use a helix ramp because its just like plunging when you move laterally from the little pocket you made
you want to fully ramp in
I would run that bad boy at full power setting 6 and shoot another video I would be interested to see
Yeah, I was going to suggest you enable feed opto on inside and outside corners. But by ear it just sounds like itās just too aggressive a pass. Reminds me of that time I missed a decimal in a lead-in feed rate.
Is it a two or three flute cutter?
@TravisBrown1 Itās a 2+2 compression, the Whiteside UD2102. Itās got a little pitch build-up, but not a ton. I think maybe when I ran before I might have only run at 5mm and not 7.5mm.
@WorkinWoods Alright awesome, thanks for all the tips. Iāve got a lot to learn here, just counting my lucky stars that this one workpiece came out fine.
Iāll try modifying my toolpath with full ramping and see what happens. Iāve looked into Super-PID but yup, at that point Iād just go for a real spindle. But at that point I need the linear Z-axis, and then I need the Y-axis lift plates, and thenā¦ 
But also Iāll turn up the RPMās and do another video on some scrap, because why not 
This router has been through hell and Iām not going to be heartbroken if it dies on me.
Helix isnāt really the right lead-in for that kind of cut. Do a slow ramp. Otherwise you are hitting a full radial load on the cutter as soon as your gantry takes off.
lol no problem and yeah lol wanna see my collection? jk
It wonāt die at full speed. I have a couple of those 611s as trim and small plunge routers and I plow them into things full depth at full speed all the time. They are loud, but strong.
The only risk you run spinning it faster is burning if the machine canāt move it through stock fast enough. With a hand router you can vary your feed by feel and back off cut pressure.
yeah running at setting 2 we are looking at around .0039" chipload and at setting 6 we are around .0028" not much only a difference of .0011" will be easier on the machine and tool
well okay maybe not easier on the life of the tool lol cause we should be around .012" on that soft ply but you know what I mean lol
So one thing I donāt get with a ramp profile when using a compression bitā if I ramp in, isnāt it just going to ruin the finish since I wonāt be starting the cut deeply enough?
you are correct thats why you have to change your lead-in and lead out settings so the upcut portion of the tool is under the top side of the material by the time it gets to the profile of your design
Ahhh, makes sense. Alright, going to play with the toolpath and see what I can do. But I probably wonāt have a chance to test this or carve anything again for at least a few days 
oh not to worry I just love helping out with tools and CAM work lol
Yeah, thatās a consideration, But with a mortise cutter is you only need to go down just past the upcut. I donāt imagine youād get chip-out with a unidirection spiral cutter pine ply anyway. Maybe a bit of fuzz.
^^ Or, what WorkinWoods said.
I know your not cutting baltic birch but if you even look at it funny it will chip out lol
at least the uv coated baltic birch I have lol craps crazy like that
Birch will for sure. Less so with straight or shear bits. The veneer faces on BB is generally < 1/16." I donāt find chipping much of an issue with thicker veneers and a sharp cutter.
Where are you getting coated baltic birch? Only coating Iāve ever seen on baltic birch is phenolic. Anything prefin Iāve seen is junky cabinet ply.
Yeah the only problem using the china birch is the voids in the core they are pretty bad sometimes
and I get it from a supplier in Arkansas its just a Russian Baltic Birch BB/BB grade UV coated 5x5 sheet thats all I really know but its high quality material
gone through about 200 sheets on the machine and have only seen 1 void in the core and it was about one 1" wide
Yeah i have seen the phenolic baltic you speak of I actually have a large sample pack straight from the manufacture of it pretty cool stuff but at 150+ per sheet it prices most my customers out
