Faster carving

Hi! I have gotten my machine under control and can reliably cut now, but am now wondering how to cut faster? I am using recommended settings in easel, and tho I am first time CNC owner I am doubting this is as fast as these cuts can be made perhaps, any tweaks or advice?

I am using easel mostly and using the default settings.

It’s going to vary by bit and type of wood. Just take the easel values and run test cuts while increasing the speed and/or depth of cut by a small amount (10-25%) each time.

Remember that feed rate and spindle RPM needs to be changed proportionally. If you doube the feed rate, you must double the RPM.

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Thx, so in easel if I double feed rate, how do I double RPM on dewalt 611?

You have to reference a table of speeds for the 611. There are a few on the forums, I just know that setting “1” means 16,200 RPM. I always use setting 1 on my router because of the fact that the lower your speed the lower your tool’s runout, so better surface finish and tolerance.

A lot of it will depend on the material. I was able to cut crazy fast in cedar fence planks. But thing went very bad when I tried to using maple.

It seems that depth of cut has a great impact on the forces loading the bit. So reducing the depth of cut allows you to use a faster speed. Depending on the carve the extra layers of cutting may offset most of the speed gained. It is a balancing act. Though I have found that it can improve quality too so even if there is no time savings it is often worth it.
I don’t uses easel anymore but check out the 2 bit operation (is it still in beta?). Using a larger bit to clear away most of the carve (roughing operation) also saves a huge amount of time.

A shallower Depth of Cut (DoC) results in a better finish because the bit is taking more, smaller cuts from the material. More cuts means more wear on the cutting edge of your bit, which means shorter tool life. Jeff, like Aaron said- it’s all a balancing act: between finish quality, overall job time, and bit wear.

As mentioned earlier, each wood and bit combination is going to have its own feed and speed. You can indeed move faster with the router speed increased, but be aware that the motor’s brushes will also wear faster at high speeds. Changing them out is a fairly simple operation, but it’s increasing the likelihood that you will have a spindle failure in the middle of a job that runs for hours.

In general, you can also carve deeper and faster if you modify the X and Y axes to minimize deflection. The steel plate modification of the X-axis is probably the most sturdy in that axis, but even the other versions can help provide at least a little more stabilization. To stabilize the Y axis, all you have to do is find a way to attach the Y axis rails to the wasteboard, lower rails, or table. There’s mods that have used brackets, angle iron, and even my custom-made aluminum braces.

The rough/detail cut operation (still in Beta, but easy to get) does indeed save a LOT of time, and it’s well worth using as often as possible if you have a good way to zero multiple bits in the same spot. I just made a Sudoku board that took a few hours with 2 bit setup, and would easily have taken at least 3 times longer if I had only used the small bit.

Finally, don’t forget that you can order bits with multiple flutes. I have 4 flute upcut bits that will haul ■■■ through MDF like it’s butter. Just make sure you’re using something appropriate for the material. Aluminum can be tricky, and if you try to cut it too fast or deep you may end up breaking the bit or ruining your workpiece. Aluminum is generally best cut with low RPM, low flute count, and bits designed for it. Of course, gaining experience will help you figure out your comfort level with something like that.

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