Finish my build, then what should i do?

Okay guys, im new here and not really good with english either so bear with me :slight_smile: or maybe there was some Indonesian people here that can help me :innocent:

the x-carve was 1000mm with acme rod here. there was some problem that i encounter while using this machine so far,

  1. when u carve something, the starting point on the project was not same with what was in easel. and if u hit stop/cancel the the bit should back to the starting point when i start the carve, and this is not

  2. the bit was to high when start carving.

  3. can anybody help me to set my homing stopper because it was not in place yet :relaxed:

so far that was the first impression when i was using this beauty, well its not a beauty now, but im willing to working on it.

Thanks :smile:

And, anyone had Easel Driver for windows? i cant download one in the inventables link with no reason at all, seems the url link was blocked in my country, sucks huh :frowning:

Thanks for the reply :blush:

Can you give me some advice which part should i calibrate? and what calibrate step should i re-do?

Thanks Phil! all check that out now

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anyway phil, i was testing my machine just now and want to ask something.
this was my model in testing the machine up.


and those was the result after it was finish.

my question is:

  1. the Letter word was ok but some letter needs to be more carved (see E and R)
  2. the M letter shape was ok from far away, but when u look close enough u can see that the shape was not right, the left leg was smaller than the other.
  3. the eye in the bottom shape was not round enough, the left one is a little oval

Can u help me with this questions? :blush: :blush:

Thank you!

1 - Design is smaller than your defined bit size. Not possible to carve a 2mm slot with a 3mm bit :slight_smile:
Use smaller diameter bit
2 - Is the M’s legs identical in software?
3 - Are the eyes perfectly round in software?

Cut and measure this file:

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thanks! just recently my easel wont recognize x-carve in the middle a carving. do you know whats the problem? i read some post in the forum but cant really understand what to do.

Disconnects during carve is usually a result of electric interference/noise generated by a device.
The device can be “anything”, spindle, stepper motors, lights, microwave oven…

Many report improved use with a good, shielded USB-cable (wire braided shield/ground) and using a USB-hub with external power. (USB ports on laptops/PC’s have limited power capabilities.

What kind of spindle do you use & what speed settings are you carving with?

Taking your machine for a walk…
Make at lease one carve with each bit you bought.
Play with different materials. MDF, Plywood, etc.
Experiment with bit sizes. (Actually change the bit) as well as lying to the software about which bit size is loaded.
Use each font in Easel once.
Try a pocket vs outline cut with the fonts.
Get an svg vectorof an animal, and import it with easel. Edit the points
Make a simple project yourself, without using someone else’s easel project. Like this one. https://www.inventables.com/projects/make-a-passive-amplifier-for-your-iphone

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Yes, i plug a speaker via USB with this PC,
The spindle was Dewalt 611, and the feed rate was 711.2mm/min, Plunge rate was 228.6mm/min and depth per past was 0.7mm

Thanks again Phil!

so i should change the USB cable? ok ill try to buy a new one and try it out.

ill tell you if it work or not

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1- yeah i just notice that. thanks and it was my bad
2- yes, The M’s legs was identical like any M should i think, then what was the problem?
3- yea the was round,

and thanks fot he calibration test pattern, ill test that out when i get my machine running agian :slight_smile:

Ok, ive manage to cut the design to calibrate and got some question following the picture (the result of the carve)

  1. The Rectangle shape was OK, as you can see the pic the shape and everything was good, only the little one in the right bottom had some problem at the upper right corner.
  2. The Triangle was OK to, but the right bottom corner was not right, there was a miss cut or something like that, that make the shape was bad in one side.
  3. The Round shape was the problem here, as you can see (hopefully its clear enough) the shape was wrong mainly at the center area (right and left one). and because of that the shape was changing into oval.

And thats the result and the feedback, anyone had an idea what went wrong?

BTW, thanks for the answer :peace:

I really suspect slack/tool deflection to be the case here.
The harder your tool (end mill) work the larger will the tool deflection factor become.

1 - the upper right corner of the squares are enter/exit point of the pocket, the end mill spend more time in this position (and enter vertically) allowing it to clear more material vs the rest of the pocket.
2 & 3 - your machine deviate when transiting from straight Y-motion into X-motion. This tells me your machine flex/give during that transition. This might be due to actual motion of your assembly / wheel slack / backlash AND/OR tool deflection.

How does the same pattern come out if you try a much less aggressive cut? (slower feed rate and shallower DOC)

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what does DOC means? im sorry but im not really good in english, specially if its very technical thing we talk about, can you simplyfy the words please? im really desperate here to make this x-carve work perfectly

English is my 2nd language - I can relate :slight_smile:
DOC => Depth of Cut (per pass) :slight_smile:

and after doing so, slowing the feed rate and shallower DOC, the result is similar with before, the feedrate before was 1016mm/min, and the DOC wan 1.6mm. after i lowering it down to 508mm/min and 0.5mm DOC. the result is still similar.

what to do next?

As far as I can tell the machine is doing what it is supposed to however the precision is not on par.

Can you do the same carve once more in pink/blue foam?
Color dont matter, just need a very soft cutting medium for testing to keep side forces to an absolute minimum.

I suspect your X-axis is binding a little, not rolling smoothly on its guides or some of its mechanical parts are misaligned. The yellow markings I put on your image tells me that your X-axis is resisting movement. The Y-move of the circles should be round but are partially straight, until X-axis finally start to move (to late).
I would suggest removing the belt on X/Y and move the axises about to check for binding/slack. It should be firm but smooth.

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