I’ve been wanting to try out the cabinet maker feature for a while this is my first attempt. I use 3/4 MDF .75 with my calipers. I probed for z every time I changed bits.
1" bit to hog the majority of the center panels followed by 90 degree
1/4" bit for everything else.
I’m wondering why all my tenons were really fat I had to trim them on the table saw to get them to fit the blind dados. Also squared up the tenons with a chisel helped assemble.
My first question being once assembled should the back be flush with the sides and the top and bottom be flush with the sides? Suggestions for fixing ? If I trim my tenons more to make the top and bottom sit flush with the sides of the case I feel like the joint will be way too loose
The “pocket” easel generated to make the stub tenons was set to cup depth .36 to leave behind .39 of material.
I have 0.75 for material thickness and the “width” of the grooves for the stub tenons generated was correct @.39 but the actual widths for the grooves cut are .35
Door bow with fresh start BM primer
Did you happen to check the thickness of the mdf to ensure it was exactly 0.75" thick? That may cause some problems if the material thickness in Easel is .75" but the material is actually over/under that thickness.
Yes .75 with my calipers. They arnt high end calipers tho
I am checking my tram now and front to back in off about 1/16" difference . I think I need to shim the router true
10-4, yep, that could also play a part (in reference to the tramming). Have you flattened your spoil board recently as well?
So many things to think about!
Edit: If you still run into trouble you could always give butt joints a shot.
I trimmed the onefinity as best I could. It’s not 100% since I don’t have a dial indicator. Used shims between The gantry and resurfaced my spoil board. I’m going to cut another cabinet this afternoon and see how the joinery turns out.
In the meantime the door panel that I cut is bowing. I’ve never made a door this way from MDF so I’m not entirely sure if it’s normal for bow towards the side where you removed the bulk of the material or if it’s just a bit of bow that was already in this slab.
I’ll edit original post to show the bow in the door.
I managed to squeeze the case together with clamps and it’ll work for a shop cabinet
Mdf for the cabinet doors is ok, but MDF as a carcass is a bad choice of materials. When you drive fasteners into the edges of mdf it will split the layers. There are special conformat screws for this purpose but generally mdf is a bad choice.
I have even used pocket holes to mitigate splitting but even that rarely works.
Look at furniture made from mdf, it always uses connections whenever the edges are involved with fastening.
I have built drawer boxes with mdf sides and plywood front and rears. It is kinda silly to mix the materials but the mdf is cheap and plywood can handle the edge nailing.
This is more for testing and dialing in the new cabinet features in easel. Rather than quality material. These will do well in the workshop for storage. Not a commission piece