First Run Project - Stair Steps with each depth pass

Hopefully doesn’t get done my friend. According to Zach it should remember the zero set point, but it doesn’t.

Ok in easel where do you input this command?

Anyone answer this…I don’t use Easel Where do you input grbl settings

$1=255

You can not enter gcode commands in Easel. The good news is you do not need to the motors should stay locked. But they are only so strong. If you start applying a lot of sideways force with the wrench you can overpower the motors and move the spindle.

Mine were not powered by default, I had to input the command.

James. It is not a matter of Easel remembering anything. You set the zeros at the start of the detail job just like you do for any Easel job. The only difference is that the x and y location where the spindle stops at the end of the rough cut is exactly the x an y where you want to start the detail job.

The hopefully part was hoping you don’t move anything when you change the bit

It sounds like some one needs to design a set of locks that will lock the X and Y hard when doing tool changes on spindles with ER collets. One would have to remember to release the locks before starting the machine back up for the next operation. Maybe a guard that covers the button or screen to remind you to release the locks.
I think this is going to be having 280 oz steppers on my machine will help with this problem and using software that moves the machine to a tool change position and will move back to where it needs to start cutting for the next op.

Dave

Allen I hear what you are saying and I don’t dispute it, just that it is an almost impossibility (at least for me) to change the 1/4" collet for the 1/8" collet without not moving the router! Below is the quote from Zach about easel remembering the zero set point; [quote=“Zach_Kaplan, post:12, topic:9977, full:true”]
Yes there is a walk through that prompts you to change the bit. If you follow the instructions and don’t unplug it then it keeps the zero in X and Y and asks you to reset the Z since the bit changes height.
[/quote]

Yes, Easel goes back to the zero spot when it completes the rough cut. After that Easel is done, if you move the X or the Y Easel will just assume that the new spot is the new zero. When you start the detail cut notice how Easel walks you through the same setup steps. One of those steps is to be sure you have set the zero correctly.

If you push or pull the spindle away from the X0, Y0 location, neither the Grbl controller or Easel has anyway to know that.

Wherever you have the spindle sitting when you start the detail cut will be your new zero location. If this location is 1 mm to the left of where the zero location was for rough cut then your detail cut will be off by 1 mm to the right.

You are going to need to figure out a way to

  1. change the bit without moving the spindle or
  2. know how to put the spindle back in the same X0, Y0 location that it started the rough cut in.

@JamesMitchell please do a test run where you do a bit change with a simple design so you can experience the process.

Zach, I don’t really understand your last post. I have done a simple design (my last video post @23h) and it failed miserably. I carved just the letter “T” with a small box around it and it was way off the zero point. I deliberately did not reposition the ‘0’ just got it close to see if easel would re-carve from the original zero and it cut over 1/2" above the original position. Also see Steven Paxman’s post @21h.

Well folks, tonight I was carving my ten commandments in an 24 X 8 inch piece of oak and it was coming out really well until the ‘X’ carriage motor started slipping and a few words were carved over each other! Dangit! So I replaced the two set screws in that gear and used red lock tight on the screws. Hopefully this will take care of those screws coming loose and I can finally get down to some serious carving. If that doesn’t do it my next course of action is to file flat spots on the arbor where the screws make contact with it. Will require some serious dis-assembly of my x-carve so I hope I don’t have to resort to that measure.

Success at last!

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@JamesMitchell way to go! Sorry my post was confusing you need to set z zero when you change the bit because the bit will be at a different height but the X and Y position should be remembered so long as you don’t put serious physical force and move it over the locked motors.

Zach, thanks for your reply, but this success was referring to my Ten Commandments plaque that I had been attempting to carve. I still can’t get the dual carve feature to work correctly. Guess I haven’t figured out how not to move the router when changing out the 1/4" bit for the 1/8" bit. Guess I need to come up with a way to ‘lock’ the router while doing the bit change. I understand the bit needs to be re-zeroed after the change.

You can move it digitally with the arrows but not with your hands.

Zach, I have the DeWalt611 router and when I do a roughing carve with my 1/4" bit then I do a finish carve with my 1/8" bit I have to of course change the bit. Even when I try to not move the router, in the course of unscrewing the 1/4" bit and replacing with the 1/8" bit I inevitably end up moving the router. Do you have any suggestions how I can do this without moving the router, short of using clamps to lock down the router? Maybe I am just too much of a klutz to do this???

Are the stepper motors locked during the change?

Maybe he’s turning the machine off during bit change.

If the machine is on, which it is, the x carriage will not freely move but it is not that hard to move it. Just the action of changing bits and loosening and re-tightening the bits will cause the carriage to move in either direction depending on which way the force is being applied. Now you have me thinking and I can’t swear to the fact that I didn’t shut down the p/s interface. I will test it soon and let you know the results.