Foam board

any tried to cut foam board for rc aircraft and if so how did it work out??

It can be done;

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The second video seems like a more realistic version of what you would be doing. I have seen several people on the forum cut foam.

Here’s one

If you do a search there is quite a few topic about this.

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I’ve not cut the paper backed board. I’m guessing it will leave fuzzies.

Depron cuts great.

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I used dollar tree foam and a 1/32" bit. It was a bit rough but very successful. Much faster and more accurate than cutting with a knife. The hard part for me is to get the plans into easel to cut. I put a foam board down for a waste sheet and then secured the second piece on top. Let me know how it works for you

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Hi, what type of bit would be best for depron?
Someone asked me if I could cut some parts for his plane and I was thinking about using 1/8 upcut or straight bit.
Also, what are you using for holding the piece in place while cutting?
Will double sided tape be a pain to remove from the depron and/or to lift the piece off the wasteboard?

ok completely unrelated to the thread so forgive me…

this is gonna drive me crazy… is that Crystal Method playing in the background of the dragkninfe video? I recognize it but I can’t place it.

@TamatoaChenne use can use a 1/16” bit. You want a fast feed rate because heat is your enemy. Use an upcut bit as well. I create my own hold down clamps with a rabbit in it to hold the depron from moving in any direction. I’m assuming you are cutting 6 mm depron?? Also I use my ca glue and tape method very successfully for this. Use the blue painters tape. It’s a low tack so it will release from the foam. Here is a video on this method

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Thank you, I will watch that video and try the blue tape with glue method.
I have not asked the thickness yet but I don’t expect it to be very thick. How about depth of cut? Should I cut deep?

I usually do it in two passes. So that would be 3mm each pass. Another step I personally do is use a piece of foam board as a secondary wasteboard. That way I set my depth of cut to 3.5 mm and I know it will cut all the way through. The tape and glue holds everything in place. No tabs

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I would try on some scrap material to do it in one pass. May work and save some time

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Thanks again I will follow your advices.

Hope your foam board cutting is going well!
This may be a little late, but I have cut about 30 entire RC planes from Adams 5 mm foam board.
1/32 upcut
Feed, 4000 mm
Plunge, 4000 mm
Depth, 5.2 mm
Dewalt 611 at about 2. (Don’t know rpm)
The bottom of the cut is clean. The top is a bit fuzzy, and can easily be sanded.
Latest plane:


Are the planes your own design or do you convert pdf plans to svg file?

Both. Many are free downloadable .pdf’s from It’s a great way to make and modify repeatable RC planes.
You can find their videos on YouTube, and most of their plans can be downloaded free on their Forum.

I have a number of plans from flitetest and rcpowers. The problem is converting it is a pain. How do you do it?

Thank you, it did not actually happen the guy who asked me to cut them on my machine disappeared.

But I will keep those settings so I can use them when the time comes.

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Yep, it’s a pain sometimes, but worth it when finished.
I convert to svg using Inkscape. I remove all the bevel markings, and just remember where to bevel during builds. Most of their crease, or partial cuts are dashed lines, so I delete them and make them solid lines. I also remove all the text from the plans, except I leave the “A”, “B” or “C” diagrams that explain what kind of fold to use on some plans. I always combine all the outside cutouts of each piece before importing. After I import to Easel, I only make 1 mm depth cuts where the creases, and score lines are. I use a semi-dull knife to finish score cuts later. All full depth outside cuts are done in one pass, and I advise the use of tabs. Sometimes a design needs to have the smaller shallow cuts made first, and then the perimeter cuts last. Be sure to add a 2 mm full depth hole in the center of the CG marks, so you can see them after the build.
I’m sure there are other ways to do this, but this is the way I know, and it works for me, for the most part.

I have started the process several times and it is a real pain. I’m working on the edge 540 now and have the wood parts done and ready to cut. Really nice plane. Flitetest did a great job

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Agreed. I have to force myself to do it sometimes, but it’s always worth it when completed.