Project:
50W Laser Bed Grid
Material:
1/4” x 12” x 24” 6061-T6 Aluminum
Tooling:
120 Deg Diamond Drag Engraver
0.15 Bit compression
http://benchtopprecision.com/diamond-drag-engraving-tool/
Router Setting
Off
Linear Feed
45 IPM
Depth Feed
9 IPM
Depth of Cut
0.005”
Safety Height
0.375”
Carve Time
2 Hours
Photos
10 Likes
Project:
Baby Floor Mobile
Material:
3/4" Stain Grade Pine Project Board
Tooling:
1/4" Downcut 2 Flute
Router Setting:
2
Linear Feed:
75 IPM
Depth Feed:
9 IPM
Depth of Cut:
0.0625
Safety Height:
0.25
Carve Time:
45 min
Finish:
Antique Stain w/ Shellac Sealer
Photos:
6 Likes
I have the Jtech 3.8w but I haven’t been using it for a while. I am planning some major upgrades this weekend finally and one of them is to get the laser back up and running. The laser bed project was for a friend who has an Epilog style laser system. Not sure the actual brand.
Caught up on open orders so time for some long overdue upgrades… 
I’ll post some before/after once I’m done.
Upgrade update…
Almost done, excuse the mess. Big stuff is done.
- All new wiring, including grounded shielding
- New limit switches
- New larger drag chain, including new mounting
- Full wiring through drag chain (power and signal will be seperated)
- Bolted rails for Suckit
- Replaced Suckit set screw with cam clamp, significantly better hold
- Upgraded probe to magnetic tip instead of large clamp
- Permanently mounted J-Tech driver
- X-controller assembled
Still left:
- Finish new switch box mounted to top of x-controller
- Will include spindle/laser switch, dust auto/manual, aux auto/manual
- Power sensing relay which will open e-stop in the event of power failure to prevent auto restart or equipment damage
- Laser mount
- Dust hose swivel arm
Hope to have everything done tomorrow. Have a few jobs queued up. I will post a final wiring diagram and list of parts for the complete setup once I’m done for anyone interested.
3 Likes
I’m very interested in your cam locks for the suckit boot.
Can you provide some more info.
Jan,
This is the cam lever I bought but you can choose whichever type/size you like. It was a little cheaper when I bought them.
I cut a notch out of the backside rail large enough for the bolt head to spin which also removes the existing threaded insert. This allows easy adjustment of the clamp tension. Then I re-drilled the existing hole with 1/4" bit. Be sure to do this part slow and steady.
1 Like
Odd question, whats the blue thing next to your drill?
I really like your improvements on the suckit, might have to copy you.
1 Like
That’s a great idea.
Looks like I will be upgrading the dust boot arms.
Thank you.
1 Like
Alex, this is an electric can of air (link below). I’ve had it a couple years and it has paid for itself for all the normal canned air I’ve avoided buying for so many projects.
Finally done with the wiring. Amazingly everything work on the first try. No sparks or smoke. Limit switches work, probe works, all the relays work including the auto and manual control over the dust collector. Super excited.
Now all thats left is the laser mount which I’ll do at somepoint, tension all the belts, check squareness and steps and then I’ll be ready to redo my bump stop and then start on the projects in my queue.
5 Likes
Jan, be careful not to over tighten the cam. I removed one side today while measuring for steps and when I reattached, I must have made it a little too tight. A few minutes later I hear a crackling sound like plastic cracking and then the side I just installed broke at the bolt and fell off. 
I will likely remake the arms out of HDPE or ABS, something that’s not brittle or fracture prone.
Thank you,
I currently other problems and have not yet ordered them but I will certainly keep that in mind.