I got a x-carve for my lab. I’m trying to learn so forgive the lack of whatever it is I’m lacking. I bought the shoe tiles because I’d like to do a project with my 5th graders. I tried carving this using an uncut 2 flute 1/16 bit and this is what I got. I ran it again deeper and still the same thing. Is it supposed to look like this? The middle is pretty rough. Being a maker I expected post processing but I think I’m doing something wrong.
You really should be using a larger endmill (at least a 1/8, but a 1/4 would be better) with about a 20% stepover. Then use the smaller tool for the portions the 1/4 could not cut. This is a two stage cutting process and Easel allows you to do it.
The larger tool will give you a much nicer/smoother bottom surface for the lager areas.
Thanks for the response. I’ve been searching the inventables youtube channel for a video that shows the 2 bit process but haven’t found it yet. Is there a specific bit you’re refering to that 1/4 inch?
Your Z axis is too loose.
I don’t know what shoe tiles are but it looks like 3 layer HDPE or similar plastic.
For best cuts in those materials a single flute bit works best at the slowest rpm and fast feed rate.
Here is good place to start learning about 2 stage cutting
Thanks! By shoe I meant HDPE damn autocorrect…
I’ll check out that tutorial. I’ll also check the tightness of my z axis. I did notice of few bolts loose but not sure where to tighted what. I’ll try to find the assembly manual for the x-cargve since I bought it used and it was already assembled.
I’ll try this and update.
You want to tighten the eccentric nuts so that the wheels can move but not so tight that you lose steps. All other regular nuts and bolts should be tight as well.
You can do more than two bits using the workpieces in Easel. Here is one I did with three bits
Good luck. Let me know how it works
@MartinW.Mcclary Thanks for this one. Having a cr-10 this made sense. The bottom wheels basically spun freely. I tighten and cut something small and there what a huge difference.
I’m with the guy saying the z axis is too loose. From my experience, you shouldn’t have that much error in the cut if you can optimize the two step carve.
Hey I tightened everything and I got a better result. Still learning so my next question is what speed do most people run their dewalt router? I’m wondering if it matters to final product. I’ll post a picture of the better outcome soon.
I do more 3d printing and modeling design now, but from past experience with the xcarve, I would research wood modulus valus and correlate that with a router speed. I tend to do faster speeds for softer materials and slower speeds for harder materials. Metals I saw were at lower RPM usually. I usually stuck to 5-6k RPM for woods like pine or nights of carving and drinking/trying not to kill myself…
Setting 1. Seriously, keep it on the lowest speed. For materials that the X-Carve is capable of engraving/milling/machining, there is no reason to crank it any higher (the minimum speed of the 611 is about 16k RPM). You’ll also get the greatest lifetime out of your brushes.