I’m currently just trying to do two simple changing room signs, but I’m having trouble with the results.
I did the first in the acrylic I’m using for the project but it didn’t cut right
One arm is thicker than the other and the head isn’t round.
I noticed after this that a belt was damaged so this was replaced and I recalibrate all axis. I’m swapped to mdf and cut another. Results were the the same, so I assumed the model was bad. I took the inventables icon, put a 0 height box over half the guy and combined. Mirrored the left over half and combined it back together, replaced the head with a new circle and tried again in MDF
Same problem. I don’t understand it, I’ll try another calibration. There’s about a 1mm difference between the two arms
Heres the project.
I’ve re-calibrated and the head is better however he still has diffrent width arms.
Looks like some slack in your system, I assume the X axis is responsible for the 1mm difference is the two arms. As your cuts are not symmetrical but all on the full depth it does not look like you lose steps.
Check the belt tension. lower the Z axis and push the bit by hand from left to right and right to left, maybe a loose Z wheel?. The slack should show somewhere.
The head not being round is a symptom of a belt needing to be adjusted.
What type/size of bit are you using? Also try just using a new file to import into Easel. I use Vcarve pro and Universal G code sender and I have noticed Its all about the file/vector lines. Any imperfections and what not throws everything off.
You are losing steps.
Belts, V wheels, and pots are where you will find your answer. @PhilJohnson has posted a number of videos that will help you solve these issues.
Don’t waste any more material until you get that sorted out.
I’ve done the V wheels, pot and calibration. The belts seem OK but I’ve not used a fish scale to check the tension.
I used a new file and it worked ok.
Yeah i’m really not happy with the Openbuilds C beam. Its rubbish, I’ve had loads of problems with it and the hollow sections amplifies the noise from the router and make its impossible to stand next to the machine without hearing protection. I’ve got an Igus linear actuator to fit but I’ve not worked out the best mounting method yet. I think i need a big bit of aluminium to bolt x carriage and then bolt the actuator to. Then i’ll need another bit to attached carriage and the router mount.
This will hide some slack