Help please. Feeds,speeds, and run time

Hi Guys,
I couldn’t pass up this thread, but I felt the need to try and make some of you feel better about your learning experience. I have (3) 3D printers, an EggBot, a NextEngine, and a Fuel3D scanner. Not to mention an X-Box 360 hacked scanner. Each of these purchases came with a learning curve not to mention modifications.
I am a mechanical engineer of 35 years and love to tinker so after researching all the different routers, china and USA types I decided to go all out with the 1000mm XCarve full blown.

I designed and printed my own dust collection system, Ordered different sized ER-11 collets, Then I started to cut some aluminum dog tags. I couldn’t even get a good engraving of letters much less cut out shapes in .040" material.

So after hours of trying different things and reading hundreds of threads on this forum I have the hardware to stiiffen the x-axis, a dewalt 611 router and spindle holder, on order. I’m designing a new dust shoe to 3D print on my Makerbot. Then I’ll try it all over again. Once that’s done I’ll move onto Vectric trail software. I do all my 3D design work in SolidWorks, then I’ll see what’s next.

I wish that Inventables included the stiffener between the extrusions on the x axis and made the DeWalt 611 the top of the line but live and learn.

I still think I made the BEST choice. Their service is by far the BEST.

Domenick

So. Here’s my drill bit. From doing the stiffening mod… Damn not knowing how to drill through metal. Lol sad face. Back to lowes I guess.

Aaron, what do you mean by “stiffening mod”?

Domenick, can you share the 3D file on your 611 dust shoe?

The stiffening mod most refer too is a steel plate sandwiched between the x axis. This prevents it from sagging in the middle especially with the dewalt or other heavier routers. Very hard to see in my photo. But I have done this and it seems to have helped even with the stock spindle.

How did you attach it? Where did you source it from?

This is the article I followed… Mostly. I got the steel bar from lowes. It’s a store in the U.S. If you are not here.

It was simple honestly. Put the bar in. I matches it with the bottom so it was flush there. Then clamped the axis with the bar in. Took the z carriage off while taking the axis off. So I ended up with two pieces of makerslide clamped with steel between them. Then used furniture bolts and their nuts to attach them. I used the drill press and a 1/4 inch bit all the way through. Then a 5/8 through half of one of the maker slide. This was done because the nut is thicker than the bolt. I did this four times and then re attached it all. Seems to work wonders. Has gotten rid of a lot of the nasty sounds and some chatter I had heard.

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Thanks Bryan – did you also get an 1/8" collet or just move up to 1/4" bits?

I have not gotten the 1/8 collet for the dewalt yet. I had been hoping cncroutershop http://www.cncroutershop.com/us_en/ in tri county would have one… Which sadly they do not. So I will be ordering one tonight.

What I am doing with the router needs a sharper inside corner that 1/4 doesn’t give. Of course it is possible to get 1/4 shank to 1/8 bit size as well.

I found one on Elaire. DWP-1250.

I am wondering if there is an upside vs downside to getting the 1/4 to 1/8 bit. Would it be stronger. Or just not having to use the adapter.

So if I understand this properly then it would take 3 to 5 minutes to cut 52 2 inch wholes out of 1/8 inch ABS plastic?

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