Help something wrong

The UNO is really a simple setup. It’s basically an Atmega328P with some fluff around it. Almost any failure would be the microcontroller. If it were the socketed version you could just replace the chip and it would probably be fine. A failing smd version is a paperweight.

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I got the socketed version on the way for that very reason. They are running a special at for October so I even saved a few $$. Thank you all for your time and if all goes well should be back up for the weekend.


Nothing like a bubble wrap mailer to make your day. New arduino has arrived now lets hope I am correct.

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Nope guess I will run to town tomorrow and get new wire and rewire the whole thing. When life gives you lemons make lemonade the down side no one said a thing about the sugar. one sip at a time.

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What Arduino IDE version do you have installed? Did you have to reinstall it?

I do not have any data to suggest it could be your problem, but it does supply drivers for the UNO connections, and the latest version (1.6.12 ???) is known to create compile problems.


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I will check that out when i get to the shop. The ide version was whatever there was at the time of the build last year. Witch is possible to cause a issue as it has been transferred from computer to computer as time has passed I could have data corruption. But I really do need to do a rewire anyhow as all wires are the same color and would make life easier by having separate colors for each connection. I look on the bright side now I have a second arduino and have been wanting to try out some arduino projects I have seen.


Well back from town. Wire, heat shrink, solder, and a few odds and ends check. Now time to have a philosophical discussion with a machine on why it should play nice and to listen to it’s answer to this being a fault of my own actions lol.


Xcarve 1
Owner 0
100% all new wiring
new 4 pin connectors
all hardwire connections tinned and joints soldered
all onboard risers and other original solderer joints reflowed
tried old and new ide
And the biggest question of the day will it chooch? Answer NOPE!!
Kinda lost on what step to take next. I have a old toshiba toughbook that has not been tried yet.

Please post the GRBL settings you are using, including the $N startup blocks.
I find it hard to believe it is a computer problem, and we know it is not gcode.
You have also eliminated an Arduino problem, and checked/changed your electrical wiring.
Also impossible to believe a repeatability problem could be from the laser or laser driver/wiring.


when i get back to the shop i will post them
laser and driver are out of the equation as the spindle has the same symptom. And correct me if I am wrong but it cant be the shield either as the pins for the pwm bypass the grbl shield. All I am certain of is that there is a simple solution to this I just don’t see it yet.

USB cable? Tried another?

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tried 4 and bought a new one
as of today if it has a wire it was replaced with new
also every solder joint was tested

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Yes. The PWM pin passes straight through the gShield.

How is your spindle wired up (DeWalt ? something else? SSR ?) Do you have the PWM (pin 11) going to more than one place?

The dewalt and laser are separate wiring that are plugged in as needed and was also rewired with new plugs and laser and dewalt are only swapped after power down

$.txt (1.1 KB)
$N.txt (14 Bytes)

just tried the last computer I own and it also will reproduce the exact same issue line for line so defiantly not a pc issue.

What is the path for turning on the DeWalt/laser?

PWM to SSR to DeWalt?
PWM to 24 volt power supply board to SSR to DeWalt?

Manual turn on of the DeWalt?

Similar questions for the laser path.

laser to pwm pins
dewalt to relay block to 24vdc spindle output

Refresh my memory, in either spindle or laser work when you send a file to the machine, at a certain point the spindle/laser turn off when they should still be on is that correct? (Also, the ghosting occurs with both devices?).

yes and no I ran part of a gcode with the spindle on a outline and the spindle shut off at the same point as the laser. I was testing to see if the laser controller was bad.