I’m not following you. What do you need exactly?
Never mind, @NAM37, I realized you have no control over the depth in Coral, since it’s based on shade in Easel, so I just made my own stacked circles stepping down .05" with every circle. It’s not too bad really. Thanks though.
I wish I could separate out gradients in my vector program, that seems pretty handy.
No problem. Any chance you could post a pic of the carve you did. I’d love to see how it came out.
@NAM37 I can, but there’s really nothing to it. It’s a small declivity only about an 1" across. I’m working on making a paint pallet and I had ordered a 1" core box bit that would make perfect holes quick and easy, but it apparently was lost in the mail, so while I wait for them to try again, I need to be making them as I have a handful of orders that have been waiting too long.
I have been thinking about making a wood plate however, and I could try your template for that sometime. As I was thinking about the depth I realized that I can change the depth of the object you created simply by changing the depth of the project in easel. Not sure of that makes sense, but point is: I think I could use it even if I was working with something thicker.
Why not use a bowl/tray router bit? Just make sure the diameter of the cut is set based upon the bit, otherwise you’ll over cut. The bits come in different concave degrees. Typical bit is 1/4" diameter, but there are others.
I have different sizes of bowl bits. Some are 3/8" to 5/8". They have different radius’ as well, depending upon how rounded you want the edging. I use Whiteside bits as well. Great and economical.
One thing you might consider is overlap with bowl/tray bits. You can overlap more by reducing the bit width size versus the actual size of the bit, and you will go a little out of bounds so account for that in the sizing. You could pay on the timeline, but it kind of cleans itself up.
Excellent tips from Holiday candy dishes!