How I zero using a 3 axis zero block that I made

Just thought I’d share my 3 axis zero block that I machined from some scrap aluminum.

I’m on mobile so I’m not sure if that video will load.

Also here is a pic of the code (long I know but it works for me and what I do)

Criticism is welcome, but I have my uses and this is just how I do it. There’s no wrong way but whatever way works best for you is the right way. Just thought I’d share

G20 G38.2 Z-1 F4; G92 Z.4150; G0 Z.75; G20 G0 Y1; G0 Z.25; G20 G38.2 Y-1.0 F4; G92 Y.8775; G0 Y1.25; G0 X1; G0 Y.05; G20 G38.2 X-1.0 F4; G92 X.8775


Well done!

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Copy paste actual code into forum post, not a screen shot…

Sorry, it’s on another computer that I didn’t have online at the time. I can get it on here soon.

Don’t forget to compensate for radius changes from one mill/bit to the next in multiple tool jobs.

Correct! I had to measure the distance my block sticks in on the material then add that to the thickness of the bit divided by 2. Or the radius of the bit.

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I don’t think that is the way to ask for something. I put all of the information on here so people can see and I had the intention of adding the code later.

It wasn’t a question, and I wasn’t asking.

It was a suggestion using a statement as the grammatical structure.

It would be impossible to read your mind regarding intent to post the code as text.

Well maybe you should work on your grammatical structure in not coming off as rude. basically telling me to do something what if I didn’t want to be liable for people not correcting the code for their own machine or bit size? I’m simply sharing, not instructing people how to do it. Anyway your delivery sucks. saying “do this not that…” is not just a recommendation.

Just sayin

G20 G38.2 Z-1 F4; G92 Z.4150; G0 Z.75; G20 G0 Y1; G0 Z.25; G20 G38.2 Y-1.0 F4; G92 Y.8775; G0 Y1.25; G0 X1; G0 Y.05; G20 G38.2 X-1.0 F4; G92 X.8775

This is the code for my zero block. If you have questions on how to make it work for your zero block I’d be glad to answer any.

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Why bother commenting at all? its whatever. I see what the inventables forum has become. Used to be a place for people to be helpful and friendly but thats cool. I just won’t post any more. You win.

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Post a disclaimer… don’t loose sleep about it. inventables isn’t liable for you breaking bits or ruining $20/of zebra wood. what makes you more special

I’m assertive, not aggressive…

You’re right, it’s not ‘just’ a suggestion. it’s not what you’re insinuating it is either… don’t read more into it than is there.

Still is. An image is the wrong format to share g-code. I didn’t berate you, just made a direct statement…

nobody is chasing you off bro… nobody wins if you leave or stop posting. Especially you. Hope you reconsider

I guess you’re right. I just read too deep into it. My bad. Anyway if anyone has any questions about the code feel free.

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Are you saying you don’t know how G38.2 works? It’s very simple, you should google it sometime.It only has 2 parameters: direction/distance and feed rate.

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Hello Kalvin,

I was wondering if you walk me through how you made the block just because I am not very good at reproducing things from the internet.

Sure. We know that we start with a block. The bottom needs to have a square cut out of it in the x and y direction, however the bit is round so you won’t have a sharp point fit into the corner so I also included a round relief in the corner of the cutout square. Here is a pic to help illustrate that.

after that all you’d have to do is measure the thickness on the z axis of the zero block, as well as how far it sticks in on the x and the y axis. For the Z is easy, you’d just use the thickness as the Z height. For the X and the Y however, you’d have to add the distance the block sticks in, and half of the thickness of the bit.

For example:
G92 Y.8775 in the code after it touched the block it is saying that the spindle is located at .8775 which is .815 (the distance the block sticks inward on the workpiece) added to the half the thickness of the bit which is .0625 which makes the .8775.

Hope this makes sense.

Side note: I made my Z shallow because I work with a lot of aluminum sheet and needed it to rest on top of 1/8" aluminum sheet. Therefore my cutout on the bottom is less than 1/8". This does make it a little harder to hold in place but with a little attention it works out just fine.

Because it wasn’t clear when I first read it and others might be similarly confused, the measured Z thickness is the thickness of the block that will be flush to the material. Usually that is the cutout area.

Correct. Sorry I should’ve made it more clear. Its a lot to explain without making a video or in person really.