Now one thing I don’t understand is Easel’s feed and speeds. Most of the recommendations for example, MDF is 40 ipm. Well when you calculate the chip load at the slowest spindle speeds it is hardly cutting at all, and will definitely heat up the bit (which I experienced). I use Estlcam, but I used Easel as a reference for speed as I had no idea what to pick. Is there something I’m missing about Easel’s speeds? I know they do 1/16" depth per pass, and 40% step over, so the machine doesn’t have much load on it.
I have never used easel…sorry.
What do you use?
V-Carve and UGS. I’ve also been playing with Fusion 360, but haven’t cut anything from it yet.
Like you said there are a lot of variables on a bit’s life span. In 8 months I have went through around 23 bits most were spent during learning how to use the xcarve and the others were for torture testing new materials. All bad milling bits I toss in a container for scrap carbide the router bits I resharpen. With the correct settings An using the proper bit for the type of job they can last quite some time. Most of my router bits have been in use for a few decades. My collection of milling bits range from bottom of the barrel ebay to some high end brand name and when used incorrectly both can have a very short life span of just a few seconds when used incorrectly. I have some cheap ebay bits that have around 40-50 hours use and some that were used for the same type of job that lasted no more than a hour. So now that I have talked my self in a circle I leave you with this. I really have no clue how long a bit last. I just got home from work my wife had a bad day told me to shut up so I came here to talk. Have a great day!!
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Haha, well thanks for the story on your experience. I’m really have no idea how long bits should last, but hearing how much people get out of them will give me some reference on how long mine should last and a good indication I’m doing something wrong.
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What material are you cutting could you use a straight flute?
I use these for wood and aluminium
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-x-1-4-Woodworking-Double-Flutes-Straight-Router-Bit-Cutter-Red-10pcs/351464194309?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D35936%26meid%3D501279eca8534c1694112ecadf2b838c%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D391354173226
I have not used any straight flute cutters before but I did order some yesterday to test.
I have been using the 1/8 inch straight flute cutters from inventables since I built my x-carve. They work well, and don’t bring as much fuzz to the top as an upcut. Been using larger ones in handheld routers and router tables for ever. It does seem that the straight flute bits are a bit louder than spiral , I think it’s because the cutting edge engages and disengages the stock during the cut, much more noticeable in larger diameter bits.
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If you really need to go deep they got these.
The bit deflection on a 3 inch cutting tool would be crazy. Anything over an inch really impacts the feedrate drastically.
So as far as small bits such as a 1/16" or 1/32", I see people say to be very careful with them, but no details. I usually use half the diameter for the depth of cut so for a 1/16" I would go down 1/32" per pass. Do I need to go slower as well such as feed rate? I haven’t used them yet, but I would like to not break them off in my first attempt to use them.
Half the diameter is a good rule of thumb.
The main reason they break is due to deflection caused by having too much of the bit sticking out beyond the collet. So keep the length of the tool beyond the collet to a minimum. The other main reason they break is sudden load changes. Like the first plunge and movement through the wood. It is best if you can ramp the bit into the wood (programs like Vcarve allow ramping). The amount of step over is also a big factor. The smaller the bit the smaller your step over should be.
If you can use a tapered tool (or even a vbit) instead of a straight 1/16 or 1/32 then that will also keep you from breaking the small tools. For most engraving and detail pass work a tapered tool works great. But your software need to understand the tool geometry.
You listen here this the xcarve almighty were talking about here If i had enough z i would run a 6 inch bit at 1" per pass. But no really I could just imagine.
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