Installing new drag chains…these are open links with clips to close them. I wanted a little color 
I never had my limit/homing switches inside the drag chain as it was such a pain, this should make modifying things a bit easier.
With a few clips installed and the motors wires run:
I will run the laser power cord and control cable through this as well. I need to find a good quality 4 wire quick disconnect for the laser control cable before I run that in the drag chain.
I also printed some new belt clips and tensioners for the 9mm belting, you can see one installed on the left side of the image above. No shrinkwrap or zip ties needed for this…very snug fit.
These would work, depending on what type of disconnect you’re looking for;
http://www.repairconnector.com/products/Posi-Lock-Posi-Plug-4-Wire-Quick-Disconnect.html
I prefer this style;
I’ll take a look, I want something that is quick, easy and can take being disconnected a lot of times.
Either of the top two should work. Just make sure you get the polarized version, like this;
aviation plugs are always nice
I have some of the 4 pin XLR connectors, but I think they are a bit bulky I don’t want them flopping around when the laser is not connected.
Yes that’s what I prefer, but he’s looking for something that has a quicker disconnect I think.
Although you can always just plug them in and not screw them down.
I am really starting to like this 3D printer
Above, I got the model for the drag chain from the links in this video…I bumped up the size a bit to make the capacity larger.
The belt tensioner and clamp was from this link:
What printer? I’m looking into getting one sooner or later. Looks like some good results!
For the piece that’s a pretty good capacity. Thanks!
I am pleased with it, I have had no issues at all.
Another black and white Frank Frazetta sketch laser etched onto chipboard - this one is 9.5" x 6.5". @JohnChamplain - the drop of hot glue seems to have helped. Thank you.
I am going to remove the pulley and belt from my Z-Axis and go with a direct connect from the stepper. First step is to cut a spacer for the top of the axis out of 1/2" aluminum. The curved front is so the Dewalt doesn’t hit the motor mount.
I used a 1/8" endmill with a titanium nitride coating at 50 IPM and a 0.5mm depth of cut.
Made another 3-Axis zeroing plate out of 1/2" 6061 aluminum to test out the direct connect z-axis setup. The one on the left I have been using for about a year, the one on the right was the test cut with a 1/8" single flute titanium nitride coated bit with no lubrication. I cut at 60 IPM with a 50IPM plunge (ramped in all the cuts) and a 0.05" depth of cut. I am pleased with how it performed…I sanded it with some 400 grit wet/dry paper to remove a few burrs. I’ll do a 3D relief carve later and really push things to test the Z-Axis.
I might give it a shot.
