Thanks! Here are some tips:
- Double and triple check the alignment on your tablesaw, jointer, and planer.
- After using your planer joint again to remove any snipe before the first glue-up.
- Take your time aligning on the 2nd glue-up.
- I have not found planing end grain boards to be satisfactory. At best you get some tear out on the ends. At worst you destroy the board. CNC with a 1/2" flat endmill is what I use to plane the board after 2nd glue.
- Use a drum or flat sander starting from 80 grit, to 120 grit, to 180 grit to get the surface smooth.
- Execute your laser engraving
- Run though drum sander, light pass at 180 grit
- Use ROS with 220 and then 320 before oiling the board.
I kinda thought that was the case but i wanted to be absolutely clear both for my own confirmation and so that no one else would do it the otheer way and wind up on the evening news.
For the money spent for the laser add-on it’s doing a great job.
Looking for some Tips & Info on how the experience has been while performing the upgrade with the laser. I’m currently in the process of building my X-Carve and trying to do as many upgrades during the process as possible.
Specifically I am wondering how involved it is switching between carving and engraving. Is there is a quick disconnect feature ?
Any general info about the JTech lasers you’re using and its performance are also welcomed.
I’ve got the 2.8w. The upgrade process was very easy and very well doc’d.
Switching depends on what “mode” you’re using your X-Carve in. There is a special grbl version you can download which allows you to engrave in manner better suited for bitmap image files. If you’re using this mode, then you need to re-load “regular” grbl, which takes seconds.
I use mine in “regular” grbl mode more often than not. This is because the type of cutting I do is vector or line-based… In this case there is no switch over time provided the laser and driver are still installed.