JTechPhotonic mount for x-carve

…and a video of burning holes in a packing box. (SAFETY GOGGLES AT ALL TIMES KIDS!!!)

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That was easy.

Wired it all up and now being controlled from Easel. Connected the laser control PWM wire pair to the input on the front of the X-Carve 24v power supply where the signal comes in from the Gshield. So if I want to use the laser just need to flip the spindle switch from Logic to Off, but the PWM signal still makes it to the laser.

Project wise, send a spindle speed of 18000rpm for full laser power and a suitable feed rate for engraving or cutting. Or send 1500rpm for very low power to trace the job (at a feed of 8000mm/min) quickly to ensure you are on the material, a dry run if you like.

If the laser is fixed and focused at about an inch above the material surface, the lift the bit stage at the start of carving drops it out of focus. Turns on, rapids to start position, lowers to start position and then starts cutting/marking. Works well.

If you want to cut, go around several times with a 0.1mm step down at a slower feed just like normal.

So cutting and engraving at fixed power is possible from Easel. Doing shades of grey/images will, at this time, require different software I think.

So, just need to design and make a mount to get the laser as close to the spindle collet as possible to maximise laser work area. Hope to have it mounted using thumbscrews so that adding or removing it is tool less. Also need to add a fan and ducting to extract any smoke to the outside of the shop.

Cheers

Ian

great. I am using the same spindle position with a change out between the wire sets (spindle, laser). I am working on a different set up to make it a bit more permanent. The folks at picengrave have a lot of good feedback on their testing with the equipment.

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Yep, I’m thinking of another stepper cable to give laser and fan feeds through the drag chains for a permanent setup. Would also want some form of lens cap to protect it while using the spindle.

I temporarily remove the laser while using the spindle. I have essentially a bridge over the whole machine that the laser sits on to avoid the dust.

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I’ve been thinking about it. A stepper cable up to where the laser head/fan will be fitted through the drag chain back to the controller. Have a four way connector (molex) on the spindle carriage so you can plug in the laser/mount it for lasering and then remove while cutting.

Anyway, got my mount made today from some 40mm aluminium right angle. Three holes to mount to left side of carriage, plus your tip, pair of holes for a cable tie. Then two holes on the front for the laser/fan mount. Works fine, pictures and video below, just needs some paint and a little fine tuning and adding some short M4 tool less screws.

Cheers

Ian

I am working on cutting out a 3"X3"X3" box from 1/8" wood sheet. I have reduced the settings on the easel to 3 inch/min and allowed the laser to be on throughout the movements. It is slow going with the 2.8w but I do see some progress. I may just run the 1/16" bit around the edge with the easel software and then back to the picengrave 5 for the pictures on the faces. I was debating with the angry orchard beer or personal family faces. We will see…

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What heights are you using Ian? Jeff at picengrave stated about 3" from the surface works best and I tend to agree going through some test projects.

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I’m still playing with it. Tried at about an inch and getting a very tight spot but I feel about three inches as recommended is better overall as it gets a bit more air from the fan through to clear the smoke.

I’m going to give the PicEngrave software a try today but also look at exporting gcode from Easel and then write a post processor and send it from UGS mainly to remove Z and replace with laser on/offs.

Cheers

Ian

Built up a couple of projects in Easel, but exported the Gcode and edited in a text editor to remove the Z movements and replace them with laser on/laser off commands and sent from Chilipepr. Worked a treat :smile:

Cheers

Ian

Dang, guess I know what my next upgrade is going to be… @IanWatkins what kind of wood is that? Has anyone tried this laser on 1/8" (3mm) baltic birch?

It’s cheap 1/8" birch plywood that I’m using while testing. Holds a good line and great for cutting too. :smile:

Very cool! Not sure if you’ve done a lot of laser carving or not, but you might want to invest in some wide masking tape. If you put down a layer of it first, it’ll signficantly reduce the browning around the edges (at least it helps with 40W lasers, it might be less effective with lower power ones requiring multiple passes).

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Actually the masking tape trick works a treat, thanks for sharing that one. :smile:

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looks great, i had mine in a box not knowing how to start, but this gives me hope.
How did you connect the laser board (the one with the key ) was it above the laser or via a lead to the left with the gbrl board and other electronics. just asking as i am quite at a lost on how to proceed.

Very amateur video I posted tonight. Let me know if this helps.

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yes and a video to boot
thank you .
having things on top would simplify all the wire routing. Now have some new inspiration to get my system up and running

Another suggestion would be to add an “air assist”. My 40W laser cutter has this, and it makes a huge difference. Basically you have a small air bursh compressor and direct the air hose to run compressed air at the point where the laser is shining on the material. This will blow away any smoke, ash, and super heated gas that is coming off of the cut.

The main advantage of this is reduces the char that you get on wood or paper, or the damage to the finish with plastic. It also improves the efficiency of the laser. I don’t know how much it will help such a small laser however.

How bad is the smoke coming off of these? I have a closed system for my laser cutter that has a heavy duty bilge fan at the end of a dryer hose connected to the ventilation outlet of the laser cutter so that the whole system is under negative pressure, and still the small amount of smoke leaking from that is enough to stink up the whole place. Especially if I am cutting acrylic. (if you value your lungs and life, don’t ever use this on PVC, poly-carbonate, or polyurethane)

I have a 6 inch fan at the edge of my X-Carve which helps move the smoke around. I just ran a test sign at 80 IPM and it was coming up with some smoke as was expected. I have the garage door open so overall I don’t notice it too much.

We done these with an air assist and a 2.8W 445nm laser diode.

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