I’d put in a call or email to Inventables support or talk to @Zach_Kaplan about it. I know it might not help now that you’ve decided to go with the extrusion, but it might help keep this problem from happening to someone else. Robosavy should be following the spec that is advertised that they sell.
@TonyLorentzen thank you for bringing this to my attention. I have an email into the CEO of Robosavvy. We will get this right for you.
Zach
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Hey @Zach_Kaplan - appreciate it. Just make sure you fix this for future customers with RoboSavvy - no need to send me a new wasteboad or anything like that as I’m going to replace it with an aluminum profile bed anyway. But thanks - appreciate your reply 
@TonyLorentzen oh OK cool. Thanks for letting us know. I gave you early access to g-code import in Easel.
Enjoy!
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Digging into old posts here, but I’m also having some bed leveling issues (right side is lower) and hate to mess up the screen printing and screw holes on the original washboard. It looks like a 2nd wasteboard is the resolution, but then kinda makes it pointless as it covers up all screws holes/screen printing on the main wasteboard, so might as well just mill the original wasteboard…
A second idea I had that I hope to look at when in front of my machine tonight is an upside thought. I’m wondering if the original wasteboard could be flipped over, and you mill the bottom to be flat, then reinstall and screen printing and screw holes still be in place. In my mind it seems like it would work as long as your alignment is off only in one axis direction, otherwise the upside down leveling would be backwards.
Currently when I cut something larger than a few inches in width/height, the XC will cut through the left side of the design, then I have to come back with a razor blade and try to cut through the rest on the right side then do some sanding. Never noticed it when first setting up my XC cause I was doing small things, but after my first 8"x10" it was really obvious so hoping for a genius solution!
My other wacky thought was to cut out the working area of the wasteboard and install some bed leveling screws under that area, but may be more than it’s worth since it’s still just MDF
Add a secondary MDF wasteboard on top of the nice one (sized to only the actual cutting area) then use a flycutter to cut .05 or so off the top so it is perfectly level and perpendicular to the spindle. Then just screw your work down to the new wasteboard. It is faster and more secure than messing with clamps.
It looks like a 2nd wasteboard is the resolution, but then kinda makes it pointless as it covers up all screws holes/screen printing on the main wasteboard, so might as well just mill the original wasteboard…
Just thinking through all options
Once you start screwing the work down, you will never look back
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Seriously. AND, you’ll never try to cut precisely through your work again. Go an extra .1" you earned it!
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There is nothing more annoying than finding out that your profile cut was about .05 to shallow, because 3/4 really means .8 sometimes.
Ain’t that the truth! My usual method is to check thickness with my calipers, then tell it to cut .010 deeper. Almost always makes a clean-through cut. Natural wood gets planed anyway, more for surface finish than anything else, but it has the nice side-effect of make sure it’s consistent in thickness.
I mostly use toggle-clamp type fixtures that are fairly modular. They do take up a LOT of Z-height to use, though, so if you’re working more than about an inch thick, they’re not for you. 
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You should be able to adjust if the waste board is flat and the machine is just traveling a little high on the right side.
- Put a bit or some sort of shaft into the collet of your spindle.
- Lower the tip down to the waste board on the left front area.
- Loosen the two front bottom screws in the right Y-axis end plate
- Using your hands or a lever raise the right front end othe the Y maker slide
- Move the tip to the right front area of the waste board
- Lower the maker slide down until the tip just touches the waste board
- tighten the screws back up
- do the same at the other two corners while checking for square between each
Does that sound like a solution?
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I did what sketch42 said. Worked out great for me. All level and easy.
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how about coating the MDF with conductive spray paint and using the auto-leveling features of PCB carving tools?
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that’s clever idea.
In all reality, the time it would take you to get a perfectly accurate parallel surface with the spindle by shimming, adjusting, indicating and what have you, it would be easier to just face mill the entire waste board. This is assuming that there’s only a couple of mm maximum of difference.
By doing so, you’ll be certain that the waste board is parallel at every reachable point of the spindle. If you’re planning on using a fly cutter or similar, i would suggest making sure it won’t cut into the supports for the gantry, as well as when facing, use less than 1/2 the diameter of the facing tool, high spindle speed, slow feed rate, and as small a depth of cut as you can.
That being said, don’t go 0.01mm @ 1mm/m w/0.5mm step over 
Just a reasonably fast spindle speed, and a slow enough feed rate to ensure you tool makes a smooth surface, i would suggest using a scrap piece of same type material to test on.
If you’re seeing a 1mm dip on one corner, touch your tool off on that corner, and face mill the entire work surface… that should give you a decent surface, without needing to cut too much of the waste board away… and as you use the wasteboard, and get gouges, burrs, etc, you can always go back, and face off a few more fractions of an inch / millimeters to clean it back up.
If you’re worried about losing the silkscreen markings, don’t be, you’ll lose them eventually anyway, but you can always go back with a sharpie, and a ruler / yard stick / big arsed square and mark them back out.
That would produce a pocket (as the X-Carve can not reach all areas of the waste board), and prevent carving into larger pieces like signage. For small pieces I’m fine with milling a smooth block and then affixing my material to that, but basic surface leveling should be possible by default. I can only hope that is accounted for in the new X-Carve design. That said, I’ve all but given up on my X-Carve and feel like I was just a guinea pig for the V2 that seems to be a more viable product.
After much frustration with the badly designed controller for the V1 I purchased the new controller kit (which was not advertised as a kit until I wrote in after ordering and discovering I had ordered another project, not a product) but have yet to assemble it, as I’ve been so unhappy with the X-Carve that just thinking about putting more work into it is rather depressing. Especially now that V2 is out. I’m just using a ShopBot for all my CNC needs at the moment. Maybe some day I’ll get my X-Carve back up and running once I’m not so frustrated/disappointed with it.
Easily remedied. Hint: You do not have to affix your larger piece directly to the pocket. You can level and place 1/4 mdf in the pocket. Or, level quarter inch mdf sized properly so you can level the whole thing… in fact, there are dozens of ways to handle this situation.
Any bit recommendations to level cave my wasteboard?
Any flat wood bit will work, 3/4" are common and cheap.
Set stepover to 80-90% and let it rip
Wider bits may have a upper RPM limit below Dewalt minimum so take caution.