That is correct.
Thanks Allen
Well Allen I stand corrected and thank you for letting me in on this information, it gives me hope that one day I ma be considered to be a tester. As for me, I have bought my X Carve and all the many accessories that I ordered and still order from them. I have a current order in now. Just makes you wonder with all the videos out there with everyone saying I got mine free! I checked into it and they wanted information on how many subscribers you had on tis site and that site made it seem that only those with a large subscriber base was the only ones getting the action. Hope you understand and donāt get me wrongā¦ I love my X carve and I will post a review as well in the near future. Thanks again for shining some light on this subject, I am sure I was not the only one that felt this way.
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AngusMassey, you are the man, could have not said it any better all cables should exit the rear except for maybe the probe, it could have a place on front, other than that the only this on front should only be control buttons, switches and lights. Makes for a very clean looking and functional system. Have a great dayā¦
I finally ordered my X-Carve today without electronics.
Since I saw the X-Controller back in May, there was no way to go with something ālessā (sorry, gShield). Now, seriously, I wouldnāt mind if it does not make Santaās bag. Software and electronics can be tricky, so Iād rather wait a little longer and receive a part that is better tested and more stable. There is usually a trade-off between time pressure and quality.
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I think youāll be glad you waited, Elias. So far, Iāve had nothing but good luck with it. Just ran another new batch of components with it last night, and it did just great once again. Nothing particularly challenging in the set-up, just a two-tool 2.5D job, but still great performance.
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Youāre doing great job Dan.
I want to add one idea if you want to try for those pockets.
After you finish it, run one more last full depth pocketing with Raster. It will clean that surface.
Offset is safer to pick that depth I know, but it is of-set.
Alan, thanks for the tip! 
The marks in the bottom of the pockets actually look much more exaggerated here than they actually are, the raking light is not at all kind to the surface finish! My setup for these pockets is an initial high-speed machine toolpath that cuts down the center in a helical ramp, spirals out to the outside, comes back and clears each corner at 60ipm and full depth (.250) using a .125" two-flute upshear cutter, then comes back and does a conventional step-over pass at 40ipm to take a final .025 off of the bottom and walls of each pocket, with a double finishing pass on the walls. You can only barely feel those marks with your finger if you are attentive, their height is less than .001. I could actually push my roughing pass a lot harder, according to G-wizard, but the table I have my X-carve on starts wobbling rather alarmingly when Iām tossing the X-gantry around that much, so I keep it down.
I really, really need to stiffen up the table!
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The money I paid for that wizard is the only one Iām very sorry.
I know Iām way too late to the party for suggestions and a lot of people have made good suggestions but over all Iām excited for this controller and the relay box. As far as the buttons are concerned and the icons Iām good with the icons you have. Itās very user friendly but I would like to see the buttons colored. Red for reset. Yellow for pause and Green for restart. If itās too late in the production even a sticker set would be good enough. Next is the E-Stop. Experienced people know what and how a E-stop works but I would like to see a label for beginners to know the function. If youāre silk screening the top with a new label it would be nice to put a power label with an arrow so people know where to reach to turn the machine on-off. If youāre not open to more silk screening then another sticker. 
My own question is Iām curious where inline the e-stop is wired. Is it inline with the power supply so it could be considered a full power off or is it just inline with stepper drivers? Iām curious if the e-stop can double as the power switch? Now filters. Stuff gets dirty. It would be nice to have a filter over the vent holes and fan. I would like to see a few pieces of 20x20 extrusion so you can mount the unit raised up from a surface and people could run wires out and under for wire management. An extra 4" piece of the same extrusion you are using for the frame without the front/back/top to use for connector protection. Since you can screw it into the enclosure because of the face plate it could be held in place with the 20x20 extrusion. You talked about how tight it is inside the enclosure. Would it be possible to cut the extrusion a few inches longer so if people want to get in and do their own modifications they would have the room to do the work? (unsupported of course) Finally some people have mentioned the extra power switches for the relay box and while those would be nice I would be happy with power indicator lights. They make nice 110vAC round indicator lights so it would be an easy add. I am curious about the relay box. Are they SSR or mechanical? Is the AC power hardwired or is there a connection/switch/fuse for the supply?Are the relayās wired to a terminal block like the rest of the connections? I know Iāve made a lot of suggestions and thoughts but I would still buy it in its current form without hesitation. In fact Iām waiting for it to go live and buy it right away.
The E-Stop is inline with the power input and is used like a big red switch shutting everything off.
As a jtech laser user, I am curious if I would now put the leads on the accessory 1 or accessory 2 positions on the x-controller? I currently have the leads from the laser control going to the pwm control. Perhaps on X-controller v2- please consider the laser add-on (if not already there).
On another note- I have seen the 4th axis potential with the round stock- might be ideal to have that option also in X-controller v2. Thanks.
V/R
J.R.