how can i stop it. causing real issue trying to get lined up for detail pass. Im very new to cnc and have xcarve 1000. im using easel. if there is a solution can you give it to me very detailed. like where to go etc…
Quick question, is this method any different than hitting the lock motors button in easel?
I dont know what the lock motor button does in Easel Pro., I have never used it, so maybe someone else can answer that but switching the dip switches to off on each axis will keep constant torque on each stepped motor.
Here is another forum with the discussion
Ok. I’ll see if anyone chimes in. They are locked but when I am loosening the collet, the torque causes movement but the motors aren’t loose at all. I will try the dip switch method to see if there is a difference.
I never found the lock button to really do a good job. I found the dip switch method to produce issues when carving (not sure if that means my drivers were overheating or something). What I’ve found works really well is I use clamps (the squeeze style) and I lock each axis from moving (both ends of the x-axis bar to the Y slide, the x-carriage to the slide and if you’re gentle about it you get really reliable clamping. Unfortunately there isn’t a great solution given the way routers work, just aren’t as well designed for that purpose as a purpose-built spindle which has a lock in it, or best is a power drawbar (zero lateral force (and you can build a poor-man’s ATC with just a simple rack on the side that it deposits one holder in and picks up another (and with no moving parts is pretty trivial).
Are you holding the router when you change the bit?
I keep one hand on the router when loosening and tightening the collet.
I use two clamps when changing bits. Just the simple squeeze clamps you buy at Lowes or Home Depot. The type of clamps you would use to hold two pieces of wood together.
I put one clamp on each side to the router. I make sure each clamp is touching the Z axis wheels, then I change the bits. Using this method I have never lost my home position. Take your time ,and be patient, it works!
I’d recommend turning off the dip switches. I haven’t had a bit change mess up my position since I did that. This thread may be helpful in that regard.
I dont have current reduction enabled and $1=255
I also home the machine prior to setting my work zero so if something did slip I´d simply rehome the machine and continue using the same work zero. Its as precise as the switches allow
In the case of a tool change I only reset Z off of a known Z-reference point, either the spoil board or something available on my piece of stock.
I think that should be $1=255 …
I also always do what Haldor suggests - home your machine before every cut. Especially after changing bits.
There is an option to “home” in the Easel / Machine menu (not In the advanced section).
If your piece isn’t oriented at Home 0,0 then keep track of the x,y distance you move from the home position to your desired x,y.
I agree I moved my homing to my current x’y. So for tool changes I move away from it, change the tool, then home. Works like a charm. Thanks to those here who brought this up
I like this idea!