Sorry for the delayed response…
Lots of it. haha
I found it at Menard’s, and at the time, they were the cheapest I could find it at as well.
I’m glad I’m getting all the Big Ten love-especially from up north! I’m glad you guys are coming to Columbus for this game, but it’s definitely the toughest of the season.
Thanks. I am in Northern VA which means we don’t have a close Menards or Fleet Farm…two great places that will hopefully continue to expand.
The half gallon set is on Amazon for $44… but I was able to get the gallon set at Menard’s for around $30 when I did the table two years ago. If I make it out this weekend I’ll try to price it to see if it’s changed (and maybe pick some up for potential projects).
I do like the sign. What software did you use?
Jene,
The design started with a bitmap from Google. I vectorized the bitmap using inkscape.
To create the G-code, I used v-carve desktop and used UGS to send it to the x-carve. However, I also tried this one out in Easel and it works fine as well. The only thing I had to change to use Easel is I couldn’t do a v-bit for the Ford letters. Using Easel, you would have to just do a millling tool path with an end mill bit. Otherwise, easel would work fine
Thanks.
I have done 3 bars now. I think the issue is with the heat. its not the heat that gets bubbles out, its air hitting it. You can blow on the bubbles but in a larger area, a propane torch is easier. I’ve had small bubbles show up right away, and bubbles form up to 6 hours after the application of Glaze Coat. Normally, if there’s a knot in the wood or a place where the epoxy can seep, it will likely eventually form a bubble. Watching it for 6-8 hours and making sure these bubbles don’t come up has been successful to me. Whether I stain or not, I always put a few layers of Polyeurethane down and let dry for about 1 1/2 to 2 hours before putting down the Glaze Coat. If you wait longer, you have to lightly sand and rub clean with a light (not soaked) rubbing alcohol before applying Glaze Coat. The poly really prevents the epoxy from seeping into the wood. If there are any joints , etc, but wood filler in them because if there is a place to leak, the Glaze Coat epoxy will find it.
I hope this was helpful.
JPorous wood causes air to escape causing air bubbles. I completed a red oak butcher block project and was able to deal with the bubbles by heating the epoxy lightly and quickly with a propane torch. If you don’t resolve the bubble issues in the first 20-30 minutes it will be too late to save the project. Heating it with the torch causes the epoxy to penetrate the porous wood raising bubbles to the surface once and for all. Then you can pop the bubbles with the torch creating a very smooth finish.
I’ve used this quite a few times. You don’t use a her gun for heat. It has to cure by itself. It’s not the heat that takes the bubbles out. It’s the carbon monoxide from the torch that counteracts the oxygen bubbles. And let’s the air escape. You can just breath on it to get the bubbles out. Which may be what causes the excess bubbles. ( Heating it up too fast. This can be remedied. With trial and error. Can sand it down. Drill out the areas with bubbles. And sand down. Reapply the glaze coat.
Is very clear and will fill every single hole or scratch that’s in the bottom layer. So will be invisible after applying the second coat. You may have. Just poured it in too thick also. It’s only made to be applied at 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch at a time. And that wood is very porous especially after sanding. So all the little microscopic holes in the wood will suck in the glaze. And make it create bubbles over time. Glaze is pliable. May be able to heat it up. Over 120 degrees. And soften it a little bit to allow the air bubbles to escape. Is always good to practice first. And always good to do a skim coat fiest to fill any voids before applying a thicker coat
