There's a way to kill any profit! Lol
You know how much that would weigh?
Plus if you ended up with the slightest bubble or defect in the resin you get to start from scratch. Yikes.
Bought the 1/2 oak plywood base (it gets completely covered up, and the birch plywood and mahogany strips for the lable. I just need the oak 1 by's and the drawer slides.
And so it begins!
How I optomize my cuts
Starting to put the pockets for the mahogany stripes on the birch lable. It's 34.25" wide/long so I have to do it in 2 stages. I drilled 3 alignment holes in the center of the first pocket to help during the shift down. I'll also start with telling it the bit is slightly larger to be able to fine tune it to match up.
Cutting the other side of the pockets Shifting the entire piece down went very well. The alignment holes work perfectly. I also started cutting the red mahogany to be the stripes. Since this is going to be under plexiglass and it doesn't have to be perfectly smooth I might just leave the strips slightly raised on the top instead of sending them down.
Looking good !
No. I use it as a square guide. I take a chisel to the corners to square them. To do the pass through I just put the material up on some MDF.
For the most part, I only cut on a sacrificial underlayment.
Got a little bit farther in the 20 minutes I had tonight.
Of course after I cut the pockets for this I think of an easier way to do it... next one I'm just having a. 25" base and make the birch strips too and just glue the birch next to the mahogany stripes. No need to pocket and inlay. Plus they are the same height so it would look flush.
It doesn't look like much butt I'm starting the V groove for the v carve inlay. The inlay will be Walnut.
Wow, how do you plan to cut the walnut inlay to fit the v shaped groove? Are you actually going to model it as a 3D shape?
What @RobertCanning said. The free software "F engrave" has a v carve inlay feature. There's a video on YouTube for how to do it. It's very easy. Just make sure that you use a v bit with a true point.
@StevePriorHere was my post and if you read it all the way, you'll see the creator of the software helped me discover my v bit had a flat spot.
Since I already said Wow, I guess now it's Wow Wow!
I wouldn't use acrylic, it's very soft and easy to scratch and blemish... glass is inexpensive and reliable. Acrylic will mean problems within a week of this is used at all.
I'll look into it, but it's probably not in the budget.
With acrylic though, you can take a torch to the scratch and make them almost disappear.
Acrylic isn't cheaper than glass, really. My local glass guy will cut 21" x 43" x 3/16" tempered (pinball glass) for $40 which is the cost for material AND cutting to size.... for rigidity you'll probably want .25" acrylic... that'll run you more than that if bought in a small quantities (2x4 probably... $80?)