Need Expert Advise for carving defects

Hi Guys,
No matter what I read on this forum and did it, I still have ruff edges and uneven circles on my carving.
Here is the one of the output job seen on pictures.

Material = MDF (Floor covering)
Bit = .125 ball nose (Similar to one comes with the starter bit set)
Spindle speed = 12000 / 13000 / 14000 / 1500 (Result isn’t changing)
Feed Rate = 40
Plunge = 7
Drawing in VCarve Pro 8
Sending with UGS.
This defective edge and uneven circle finises at the wrong spot at the end.

Y Stepper voltage increased as advised.
All belts are the same tightness and nothing loose.
Big square test (without spindle) running smooth.

Can’t hold job coordinates on same place.

Hey @AlanDavis whats your depth per pass? It looks like the bit is deflecting quite a bit one the outer profile of your design, does the machine attempt to cut that profile at full depth?

We also need width of cut (WOC) and depth of cut (DOC). Also how far is your end mill sticking out of the collet.


On this one, yes. Because 3D clip art didn’t give me choice or I missed. But I have another defect with 5 steps for 0.5" dept, still ruff edges and beginning of the image is not matching at the end.

I’m inserting bit all the way passing collet’s upper hole. Depth is different every time. doing same thing on 0.1" and same on 0.5". Seems offset giving more problems than raster.
The other word, anything rounded having problem.

Ball nose, V bit and Spiral bits are the same. I didn’t try Straight flute bit.

Have you tried wood as your material? I am familiar with the laminate types of products and that veneer is not very dependable for this application. Just my 2 cents:: )

This is the best result I can carve. Wood chopping more. Only I didn’t try fancy woods yet, because I’m spending lot more time fixing/adjusting the machine.

One of my first tests with my x carve I noticed similar results and it baffled me for a while until I remembered there are TWO sets of adjustable v-groove wheels on the Z axis! I was adjusting the front ones but forgot all about the rear ones. Once they were adjusted it was much smoother.

Thanks for the advise Antonio, but I go over all alignment zillion times. Also I found best way to make belt holders stable. If you check my findings if make sense.

Here is more defects, maybe tells something. Especially the V-carving black one on highly expensive wood, already garbage.
Someone even can carve this with hand better.

@AlanDavis can you send me your V-Carve file please?

.5" (1/2") plunge depth, thats a bit deep isnt it? Can the machine handle hat kind of milling? If so I am really babying my machine, lol. I am only going .05" on my depth per step. But Im a newbie so Im just trying to figure things out as well!!

That one in my Laptop, I left in my Office.
This is the similar work, transferred dxf file into V-Carve Pro. Did the same thing.
I know I’m doing something wrong but what.

TaskayaPlate3.crv (1.6 MB)

Maybe that’s why, let see Inventables didn’t return back yet. Thanks Thomas.

1/2" is very deep for the X-Carve, can you try milling the job with 1/16" depth per pass and see if you get better results?

Ok then, I will give it a shot. Seems I’m abusing this machine. I’ll go slower on depth and get back to you tomorrow. Thank you.


Is your .125 ball end mill HSS or carbide.


I think Carbide, I purchased from inventables, (10 pack)

I’m sitting here plugging numbers into Gwizard.
.125 carbide ball end mill
collet stick out 1"
DOC .045"
WOC .062"

spindle HP .4
RPM 14000
feedrate 110 IPM
plunge rate 110 IPM
deflection .0005"
conventional milling.

The important number here is the deflection. Any thing above .045" puts the deflection over the limit of the end mill.

Also your surface speed (SFM) 440 Mfg’s Sfc speed is 1500 SFM