I’ve been making a few signs here lately for X-mas gifts, and used the “paint background color first, use roller for letters” method.
This sign is actually a blue stain background with white paint lettering/border.
This one is “gunstock” stain for the background.
Nice! What are you rolling with? I’m working on the “paint the letters color all over, add adhesive vinyl, carve and then paint the back ground, remove vinyl” method. With down-spiral bits it works perfectly, but I will need to touch up the lettering by rolling. Hence my question.
Are you using a rubber brayer type roller or some kind of stiff foam or something?
I…well more specifically, my wife uses a trim paint roller like this:
I’m not very patient when it comes to delicate painting operations, so my wife helps me out with that! lol
I would spray the whole thing black, let it cure completely (several days). Then spray the whole thing white and wipe off the lettering and edges while the paint is wet. Using a paint with a longer working time, or in a cold area will help.
Seems ridiculously simple but, this is how I am going to do it… NEXT time. I have carved the sign a 2nd time after spraying the whole thing black and applying vinyl. THIS time, I used down spiral bits and the result is beautiful. Now I am painting the whole thing white and covering tooling patterns and marks with white wood putty as I go. I took lots of pictures and eventually, when this thing is done, I will post pictures. Down spiral bits are God’s gift to the x-carver.
@Earwigger I would have agreed about the downcuts - until I did a V carve using my new V bit with replaceable carbide cutters. This thing actually produces swarf which is closer to shavings than chips. The cuts were mirror smooth.
The lesson here is that good tools, really do make a huge difference.
I bought some of the con-tac vinyl yesterday…definitely want to give that a try and see how well it works.
Give a brother a link. I can always use a better v-bit. I noticed how perfectly even the cheap ones work the first time out of the box.
Now that’s a tool I want to see! I have no idea how you’d make a replaceable insert on something of that scale, that’d be cool. 
I came across a replaceable edge bit this morning before work. This should point you in the right direction.
Hang onto yer wallet! (i think)
$233 for the set on Amazon. I would finally get to use my 1/2" collet for something other than making new wasteboards.
It does seem like 1/4" and 1/2" bits cut better. Maybe I will try the 60 degree one once my new cheapy begins to dull.
Those Two replaceable blade V bits are 1/2" shank on that set. Can’t use.
I’m using this 90 Degree V bit, cuts like a butter. I can’t find 60 degree close to this price for 1/4" shank.
It is good bit, purchased extra blades as well, but who ever consider buying this kind of replaceable blade bits must know that, it’s noisy. Ripping the air. If extra noise is not a problem I think Amana Tools doing very good job.
http://www.toolstoday.com/p-6015-in-tech-series-insert-v-groove-router-bit.aspx
Thanks Alan. I have a half inch collet, so would you choose 1/2" over the 1/4" if you could? The larger the shank, the seemingly more stable the cut. Or is it dimishing returns after 1/4"?
The larger the collet, the better the performance will be on almost all routers. The stability of the heavier shank is just better.
How’d you manage to get a half-inch collet on an X-Carve? That’s awesome!
Of course 1/2" must be standard for every router, that’s why 1/2" shank bits are more expensive. It’s got to be some benefits on it. I only use 1/2" shank router for Dove Tails. But unfortunately mostly X-Carve owners have up to 1/4" shank like me. If you have 1/2" shank spindle, take advantage of it. And important to know that, if spindle have 1/2" shank, means have lot bigger and more stable bearing system on it. M2c.
Must put addition; If you have 1/4" original Colette router and some how upscale to 1/2" Colette, you must be so brave guy standing next to it.
I have the Hitachi 12VC with a precision collet. It’s very quiet and very powerful. BUT, it is several years old and if the brushes go (and they really, really should because I am STILL on my first set), I will probably go with a smaller router and build my own speed controller. (The Hitachi also has amazing speed control)
Some progress updates:
First carve using upspiral bit (DUMB!):
Second carve using down spiral bit (SMART!):
HEY - what happened to the dots over the “i’s”? I found one later across the room. No problem - 1/4" dowel is the perfect fit:
I am now letting the background paint (white) cure before I laboriously remove the vinyl with tweezers (probably this weekend). More pics to come.
Remarkable.
One more - the North Carolina State Seal, done with a v-bit. I soaked the MDF with sealer and let it cure to make it hold more detail and am using a brand new v-bit for best results. Without soaking the MDF, the smallest words like “of” were obliterated.
This is after the white paint and before the “braying” with black (which I still have not tried, but am looking forward to it).
