Re-Remarkable.
1 Like
Wow, that is VERY nicely done!
I love downspiral bits, a guy here at work introduced me to them, and I havenât used anything else for finish work since.
@Earwigger - Iâm a bit late back, however hereâs the 90 degree cutter I bought. Love this - itâs immediately replaced all my other 90 degree bits. http://www.toolstoday.com/p-6015-in-tech-series-insert-v-groove-router-bit.aspx . I bought half a dozen spare inserts, so Iâm set foe years (unless I break or bend it).
Iâve noticed that in my DeWalt, if itâs cranked up to max, thereâs a tiny vibration - I assume because the carbide bit has to be just off-centre, however the cuts Iâve done thus far are mirror smooth.
Also did some cutting today in 5mm polycarbonate with it (at the DeWaltâs slowest speed). Even though I mucked up the feed rate (made a profile cut so the work would be chamfered - I forgot that as it was cutting deeper each pass, the width of cut would get progressively wider) the tool still ploughed-on and despite me having to hold the spindle to reduce the vibration under load for the final pass, it still cut cleanly with no melting or swarf stuck in the cut.
Not the cheapest, but Iâm a convertâŚ
1 Like
Iâm using same bit for a while. Itâs amazing tool. If you want to use it properly, just listen the sound and adjust your Dewalt Speed slowly down until you find most quiet noise and vibration level. It cuts best if you find that sweet spot, and stops ripping air like Jet engine.
Sign completed. Destroyed that state seal trying to use a brayer. Even almost dry ink began to seep. I cut another, simpler state seal more like the one in the original sign with the stars and bought the worldâs smallest paint brush. After priming, I put on my strongest âreadersâ and went to town. Hours of touch up later and it is ready for itâs seal coat. Sent pictures to the customer and they are very happy and want more signs. I doubled the price.
The brayer works GREAT for the big letters oddly. The adhesive vinyl may have saved SOME time, but I still needed a recoat and my fingernail beds are ALL bleeding trying to pull the vinyl off those letters. I might try without next time. Great learning experience and I appreciate all the advice. Tiny, tiny brushes seem to be the key here.
The seal:
3 Likes
@Earwigger To remove the plastic, try using a sharp metal scriber to lift an edge, once youâve lifted an edge, you simply place a finger against the tip (trapping the plastic between the tip and your finger) and lift the plastic film away from the wood. the fine metal tip makes it relatively simple to find and lift the smallest pieces.
As a middle aged bloke with middle aged eyes, I also use one of these to assist
I tried that. I also tried tweezers, but using metal sometimes took out a chip. I found that pressing your finger down hard and pushing or rubbing, created enough of a wrinkle to grab a hold.
I also used adhesive vinyl with pretty persistent adhesive. Some was left behind on the surface, making it tacky. I may try cheap shelf paper to see if that comes away cleaner.
What type of plastic are you using?
The plastic film I use is called âContactâ - its used here in Australia for covering kidsâ schoolbooks. Bought at local hardware store for just a few bucks.
Not trying to hyjack this thread but I thought I shouldnt make a new one as I am having the same issues as the above project. I am not too happy with my results. I need to do some hand touch up.
- I spray painted yellow. Let fully cure.
- Put vynal adhesive masking on top
- Carved
- Spray painted blue
- In the process of clean up.
I guess the masking did its job.
Perhaps spraying shellac before spraying on blue would be the way??
P.s. Im gonna cut out on table saw. I found that doing a shallow quick engrave of the boarder then cut out is much faster. As long as its squarish it works.
60 deg v bit. Feed=55ipm thought it was sharp but I guess I have been running it for about a year. And its soft pine so that doesnt help I think.
If you slop sanding sealer on it first. Then sand it. Slop on more sealer and sand it, your adhesive will still better and your edges will be sharper. I used a burnisher (rubber roller) to press the contact paper down tight. That would probably help.
I remember needing to do some touch up after anyway. Still yours looks pretty good.
Thanks. I have new v bit ordered and comming in the mail. Wish they were a little cheaper but yeah. It must be way over due.
So sanding off the sanding sealer wont ruin the paint underneath?
Do all of the sealing BEFORE painting. Make it nice, smooth, non-porous. Then, begin your project.
New bits make a big difference. Thanks. Does anyone know where to get a good down cut .500" ft em with .250" shank.
That was the only one I couldnât find and my srraight bit does not like masking tape.
I ran it in pine last night for an hr. So I cant speak to how long it last. But Im happy with it. Nice sharp bit makes a huge difference. No little fuzzies or clean up needed at all.
1 Like
would not have thought to soak the MDFâŚ