Need to change Z zero but not X,Y with no probe

I’m doing my first 3-bit carve and just got done using the bowl bit to make the recess. I’m using 1" x 1" for my work zero and trying to figure out how to zero the Z to the bottom of them bowl and while keep X,Y what they currently are. I don’t have the z-probe.

Is there a way to do the Z zero at the bottom of the bowl, then manually jog the machine back to X, Y? I can’t find a way to set a new Z zero w/o changing X, Y zero which I obviously don’t want in the bowl part!

Just move your xy whatever you need to to set your z then raise the z 1" move the xy back the same as you moved it before and drop the z down 1" and you should have it.

@WayneHall I’ll be setting the z 0.4" lower than where my work zero is, so raising it 1", moving it to the work zero, then lowering it 1" will try and go 0.4" into the wood. Maybe I’m missing something? Also with your method, when would I hit Use New Position for the work zero?

I’ve had my x-carve for a month and still have a lot to learn.

Thanks for the help!

For trays like that i usually use center as x,y zero…

however i believe if you turn on z probe it let’s you set z manually wherever you like, then you can set x,y in a different location.

@SethCNC - for my first tray I did use XY zero which ended up in the cavity and was easy, but this one I’m doing 2 at a time so would have the same problem.

I enabled probe for my machine, selected manual, and at the same screen as when I didn’t enable probe. I can’t figure out how to set Z separate from XY here. What am I missing?

Oh no. It’s actuarial what I missed… i thought it would let you set z and then x,y BUT apparently in remembered it wrong.

Personally I export my gcode and use Openbuilds Control which let’s me set all 3 independently from each other, i can set x, then move it and set y then move it again and set z if i wanted to go crazy…

But for right now you could do Waynes method but turn on the router for the plunge back to the z zero and just carve that hole into that front left corner of the material :man_shrugging:

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looks like @SethCNC was out partying to late last Nite or up to early on a Saturday :crazy_face: :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye: :stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes: morning

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OK, so here is what I did, and it worked. Since apparently Easel needs to set X, Y, and Z all at the same time, I moved the X, Y to 3, 3 for the v-bit carve, instead of 1,1 like the other carves. This allowed me to set work zero in the dish!

It’s simple now that I have it working, but it took a lot of over-thinking to get there!

Thanks for the help!

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Do you design in Easel (or Easel Pro) and carve with Openbuilds Control? What are the benefits to using Openbuilds over Easel, other than better X, Y, Z zeroing control.

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I can use my phone to jog the cnc. (I have a 4ftx4ft cnc and my laptop stays over on one side not really at the front, so the ability to jog it unto position with my phone is nice.

Openbuilds supports x,y,z corner probes.

Openbuilds can built in buttons for jig functions, the most common use is a L shaped fence and to can save its position and then not need to set x,y zeros because the saved corner of the jig can be used.

Openbuilds allows user assigned macros (basically buttons saved for custom functions)

The page for setting grbl settings is setup easier to use with better definitions.

There’s a built-in calibration wizard for fixing the cnc movement calibration better than the default settings is shipped with.

And if you have multiple machines you can choose which usb com port you connect to. & can also open multiple instances of openbuilds and connect up multiple machines at once.
Easel can only connect to one and it picks (seemingly at random) which it wants to control.