didn’t see mention of bracing the Y extrusions. full length or couple small brackets should help keep it nice and rigid.
built my enclosure and wish i would have added quick disconnects to the all cables. that way i could easily separate the xcontroller and lengthen the cables some in the process. barely reach currently with x controller mounted outside - may do it at some point still.
led lighting is great - can never have enough.
bump stop addition is always a good idea. either permanent or easily repeatable via pins and associated holes
setup you soft limits once you have your endstops situated
Definitely need to brace the y extrusions. Have seen both the rabbeted board against the rail, and the simple screw diagonally against it. I like the idea of a full length rabbeted board against the outside rail.
LED lighting is a great idea in the enclosure for sure.
The enclosure is going to be a lid/cover possibly that just lifts straight up, I want full access to everything so that’ll also be a process planning that. Or a lift up lid that is easily completely removable.
Have a dust deputy(the diy plastic cyclone thing) that will likely be incorporated into the dust removal setup. Idea is to get the dust outside and noise too, have to build a little mini box for that that is soundproof and weatherproof. Looking at the Grizzly hanging dust collector, an inline hvac fan with similar CFM and SP, or simply a shopvac. I know many will say ahhhhhh what? But my woodworking friend has a shop vac outside that he uses often and it’s still kicking, and setup correctly it minimizes early burnout, IIRC his current outdoor Shopvac is 18 months old or so and still going strong, I used it last week to cleanup around the shop. He has a large dual bag collector that is for wood only off of all the various tools. The shopvac is for the drill press, welding table, shop cleanup, etc. Anything that isn’t direct attached to the various tools the shopvac cleans up.
Endstops and soft limits? Tell me more.
Considering the Triquetra zero plate and the taller Y plates…
Not clear on total height.
Stock Z height for material, new material height with 5/6" CNC4newbies Z, and then newer material height with 1 or 2" Y adapter plates.
Prefer not to have to add in a secondary wasteboard for inlay/thin material, but would definitely like to be able to put in a 4" block too(and maybe that’s out since I only got the 5/6" Z?).
Are there known heights for stock Z, CNC4newbies, and what 1/2" height will do?
Or is it one of those, you see when it’s all assembled…you’ll know for sure?
The enclosure is going to be a lid/cover possibly that just lifts straight up, I want full access to everything so that’ll also be a process planning that. Or a lift up lid that is easily completely removable.
Guides on the backside (linear bearings mounted to box with u-bolts and couple ground steel rods) and pulley setup perhaps. Large rubber seal/weatherstrip on the base that the top box rests on when dropped down.
But my woodworking friend has a shop vac outside that he uses often and it’s still kicking, and setup correctly it minimizes early burnout
care to elaborate on burnout precautions?
Endstops and soft limits? Tell me more.
Endstops/home switches. Designsbyphil (bottom page) for setting up your soft limits.
Also, this link comes to mind for some more insight; "Limit" Switches Finally!
Spent most of the day re-arranging stuff to fit the bench for the X-Carve. Had crazy plans for an awesome cabinet with drawers and other stuff. All axed to get this assembled and running asap. Found a 4ftx7ft commercial door slab almost 2" thick on craigslist for cheap. Cut that down to 54x48 for the work bench. The X-Carve front will be towards the right so longer stock can be used.
Gusseted pocketed Kreg HD screw legs, with a bottom shelf. It’s pretty rock solid and doesn’t move or flex at all.
Squared frame/wasteboard with help from Phil’s page.
Have a question and need help.
In regards to the 9mm wider upgrade parts from Open Builds, I found a decent picture here from Phil’s post…
In the first picture, it seems to me that the factory aluminum spacer is used with a washer.
But if attempting that the nut barely threads the screw.
What is the correct order for the open builds pulley? On paper in the attached picture do I have it right?
One search and video on openbuilds shows an inside/out but pretty sure that is not applicable here as the bearings are identical on both sides, couldn’t find any decent step by step pictures or step by step instructions for assembling these idler pulleys from Open Builds.
The OEM pulley bearing metal sticks out a little bit on one side, the Open Builds pulley does not on either side.
Have to use the OEM screw as the open builds screw is too short.
Do I omit the oem washer? It seems to work that way, but I think I see the washer there in Phil’s first picture in that post above?
So I do have the correct order(technically, the plastic idler should be swapped left one with a bearing)? I’ll run to the Lowe’s or home depot tomorrow and see what I can find then.
Just want to make sure I’ve got the order correct. I can’t tell in your picture now if the washer is there or if it’s just a reflection…
I used only the wheel, bearings and the nylon spacer(between the bearings) from the openbuilds packs. I didn’t shim them beyond the original aluminium spacer because the shafts on my motors aren’t the longest. Although I may shim them by 1 washer if the alignment doesn’t work out. You can see what I’m talking about here in my build log. I am using Phills belt clips and there’s a slight plane difference near the front of the gantry(I don’t think it’s an issue but if I knew about it while I was putting it together I’d have just thrown the extra washer on it.
So Screw->carriage->aluminum spacer->(optional additional washer)->idler assembly->washer->nylon nut works with a 35mm screw. A 30mm cuts it close. I only used these 40mm because I didn’t have any other 35mm(hence the nylon spacer you see).
The potential additional washer would go on the side of the aluminum spacer.
The additional spacer would prevent this slight angle but for me it’s only this way due to short motor shaft. Since you have the 269oz, you have plenty of shaft to move you gear out and in turn shimming your pulleys the additional 1mm
You probably could flip it but I don’t think you’d gain anything and may cause other issues. The router may not extend past the mount and you need it to extend under the mount.
You can try it and see before mounting it. The key thing is that the Dewalt hangs under the bottom of the mount.
