So still having issues with this machine. Heres the latest poop…
I checked V wheels, good
Belts, 3# with fish scale
Tram machine… again
Squared machine… again
Makita upgrade with spindle mount,
I use recommended cut speeds and depths, bits are relatively new (bought with machine)
Need some help, input please. Thanks, Geo
How are you securing the wood to the wasteboard?
The center may have a bow or its moving
Are you doing two stage carving?
Top and bottom with bump stops, corners with plastic hold downs, new machine as I’ve said but I’ll check the wsaste board. Thanks!
Phillip has a good point, how are you setting your Z axis?
Are you setting the Z in the exact same spot for both bits?
Yes, using last set xy position. Also motors are locked like strawbyte workshop…
If this is two stage carving I usually use a separate block of the same material to set the z axis. You can get the exact point every time
So the machine stops at the original z, x and y position at the end of the 1st carve. I raise the router change bits and continue on with the next carve, after running the probe.
Yes, but you have to make sure that you set your Z axis in the exact same spot. You need to pick a spot on the wood that wont get carved. Put the puck there and set your Z. You can ever draw a circle around the puck to make sure you set the Z for the detail bit in the exact same spot. If its not in the same spot the wood could have a slight variation and cause the Z axis to be off.
Okay, takes awhile sometimes for the gray matter to get movin. So your saying I need to probe the Z in a spot that dosent get carved during 1st past in order to alleviate these issues I’m having.
I dont know if it will alleviate all you issues , but you will have a flat bottom as long as your material is secured and the wood is flat.
Some of the spots in the sample pictures looks like the wood may be moving or have a bow becasue its a different heights. The spot inside the apple stem looks higher than the rest.
Excuse me Mr. Lunsford as this is all new to me. So the “additional” piece a material is just that, another piece of whatever brought in as it were to only set the Z? Like side by sid then set the X and Y?
It is. I have that chunk of wood plastered to the table.
If I’m running something with a slight bow I will add a shim under it then secure it down. I just used tapered pieces of wood for the shim and slide it under until it makes contact with the piece of wood. That way the wood wont flex.
All excellent suggestions thank you. I will try again…
you’re getting a lot of good knowledge here so far between Phillip and Russel!
I have a few questions that might also further improve the process…
What bits are you using? Size and type?
Also, can you share the easel project? using a depth per pass that results in a thin finishing pass will reduce push OR pull forces (depending on bit type) against the board, and the gantry, and usually results in a smooth bottom pocket. In other words, if you’re removing all of that in equal passes
For Example, Lets say pocket is 0.2" deep and you’re using 0.1" depth per pass, it will not result in as smooth of a bottom finish as 0.2" total using a 0.175" depth per pass, because that 2nd pass will only be removing 0.025" and thus will have less forces pressing up(downcut bit) or pulling down (upcut bit).
Here’s how to share that easel project…
Seth sorry bout the delay, early to bed up at 3.
So bits were 1/8 in double flute straighr end mill for roufh pass and 1/16 in fishtail spiral. Where am i sending this file from easel?
Checked board and square, all good. Another question, is it necessary to home machine between this type of carve?
It shouldn’t be necessary, inventables support will tell you to though, then they will tell you that you need to reposition the bit to the exact position of where you started the prior carve,… but these are both silly and unnecessary.
Well unnecessary unless the first plunge is at 0,0 since they refuse to fix the the gcode for 0,0 initial plunges…
Regarding where to send the easel share link, well here would be nice… the project link was to just look at the depth per pass and the total depth to see how thick the passes and final pass actually are…
Kinda interested in how you’re checking the board for a flat surface, parallel to the spindle… I would use the spindle itself and gague or shims to verify that the top is equidistant from a bit in the spindle itself, NOT by placing a level or other flat edge on the board, that’s not actually accurate to check co-planar…