The top frame you can do with the J-Tech. The bottom will need a CO2 laser just so you know the limitations.
Get one of each! That is what I did. (well one diode and two CO2)
Why canât you do the bottom frame with the J-Tech laserâŚI have done similar things to that with mine.
Cut outs and inlay take awhile. Yes possible but can turn out not so pretty.
Gotcha, I didnât see that as an inlay, just the darker parts were hit with the laser. But yes, inlays and cutouts would be tough if possible at all.
That is too easyâŚI use V-Carve for stuff like that. Quick and easy with text and vectorsâŚnormally I use the quick engrave toolpath.
Iâm self imposing a ban on myself from reading this thread. Iâm just now feeling fully confident in my capabilities for the carving aspect, even though I havenât used anything but easel yet. Iâve wanted a laser engraver LONG before I wanted a cncâŚso this is the last thing I need to look in to right now. Only problem is I just looked up the costâŚand now I want the xcarve upgrade even more.
Dammit Phil, now you have me wanting a laser!! Iâve got to quit reading these upgrade threads!!
for acrylic⌠cast is ideal for laser engraving. I think Iâve seen several here who have done back of the mirror engraves
Clear acrylic will probably not work with the J-tech laser.
Iâve got the 2.8 and love it. I recommend the ebay lens. It works very well with the 2.8. Pro tip from those that came before me. Get a piece of black anodized aluminum and use that to focus your laser. I use a spare AR15 lower. You can do glass if you spray paint it first. There is a thread around here on it somewhere.(Found It)
Clear acrylic etching doesnât work great with the 2.8 with any method. Its not that it doesnât work but it takes so long you will quickly wonder why you arent using a bit. I have had mine since 2015. It went on the x carve before the spindle. I have had a lot of fantastic help along the way and am willing to answer any questions and share any comments, suggestions, tips that are JTech 2.8w related. Gotta give back and pay it forward for all the great help I received
Quick shout outs to a few of those that helped me
@picengravertoo
@JohnChamplain
@JTechPhotonics
@RyanCook (For the info on glass etching)
@IanWatkins (For the write up on electro etching)
See Picengrave laser picture thread for awesome mirror engraving examples.
Phil, take a look at LaserWeb4, itâs a locally installed laser/CNC control program you access via Chrome. Havenât tried it for CNC, but Iâve used it with my K40 laser which I converted to use a Smoothieboard. Itâll set up images for engraving.
I have a 3.8w and I did cut 1/16" maple wood with 3 to 4 passes⌠Very clean. Just make sure you focus the laser real well.
Once you start doing shaded etching this becomes an invaluable piece of software. One of the best features is its ability to have variable feed rates and to "skip whiteâ which decreases burn time and allows for some very impressive depth to a gray scale image.
The glass is very cool but it takes a while to run. Super for gifts and friends, not so much for production.
I am still using LaserWeb3, because I couldnât be successful to configure LaserWeb4 working (it does not generate G-code for engraving)
I think, that LW3 was easier with initial setup.
The 3.8Watt J-Tech was on order within a week of me getting my X-Carve 1000 a year ago. Iâve enjoyed doing mixed use projects but as an example of one of my laser only projects Iâll share a piece I made for my wife for valentines day this year.
It engraves slightly nicer due to the smaller focal point⌠Just takes about 30% longer.
Sadly, Jerry Honkanen has passed away, but his web site is still up. http://www.oldcharms.com/
Maybe his work represents an example of what you mean.