But you do have the one at work you can use so you can protect your mill. Better off than most folks without on sitting on the table at home at least my friend!
For sure! I mean, I have the money in right now to buy all these things I want, but then I’d be broke 
when I finely get my machine up and running I too will not use stock electronics. Folks on the forum are always talking about how hard it is for them to change tools and not lose position. I ran across that brake and thought it looked interesting. But those people think there brake is made of gold $141.00 each i don’t think so.
Dave
@DavidSohlstrom and @Travelphotog
If the grbl settings are done properly, $1=255, the motors stay powered and tool changes are a breeze.
Aren’t students broke most of the time any how ?
Dave
I was under the impression that it should work that way. If that is the case on the stock controller then I do not understand why folks are having issues with tool changes and losing zero… But it sure seems like a good number of them are having issues with tool changes and not being able to keep their zero while doing it.
Mine was not set to $1=255 by default, I had to do it myself.
With both the TinyG and the PlanetCNC MK3 I have never had a single issue with a tool change losing zero. Both also are set up for probing which makes a tool change that much faster. $141 is CRAZY money for that! But since our controllers (and it seems the stock one) do not lose zero while doing a tool change, it should not be an issue. But I do wonder what it is that these guys are doing that is having them have so many issues with tool changes.
No idea…I change bits 2, 3 or more times with most things I do with no issues.
That is crazy! So when it stopped the motors would do dead and the mill was free wheeling? WOW! But I am guessing they do that since the drivers they use are not kind to the motors when they are locked but resting (which uses the most power). Even coming from the TinyG to the DSP drivers I saw a huge decrease in motor heating while resting. I can leave mine resting (yet powered) all night and they are hardly warm to the touch. The TinyG would have them hot enough that touching them for TOO long was not comfortable
Same here. I change end mills 2-5 times on most of my aluminum projects and have no issues. But I am guessing it is turned off by default due to motor heating.
Mine rarely sit that long powered, but twenty-thirty minutes and they are not even warm.
I know that a lot of stepper drivers have a current reduction mode when they sit idle for a while.
Dave
So I grabbed a bellows design online, printed it out and did all the folding. Works like a charm! Now I just need to refine the design a bit, come up with a good mounting solution, and find a better material. Heres a vid of it in action
2 Likes
That’s really cool. Looks like your X-Carve was involved in a paintball war.
2 Likes
I just noticed one thing Eric. Your air clearance system seems to point sideways towards the back a little? I have mine coming in from the back at 45s to the endmill and blowing forward. I am wondering if part of your issue might be blowing the chips towards the back VS the front? Of all my axis the Z is my cleanest overall. I wonder if that might be part of the heavy build up you are seeing.
I feel like there should be some organ grinder music to go along with that. 
Otherwise nice job!!
2 Likes
Perhaps. I need to get an enclosure made before I can change the orientation otherwise I’m just blowing chips in my face. That’s been on my list for a while now, maybe I should just channel my inner Shia LaBeouf and just do it already.
1 Like
Can you post a few pictures of your force air system? I was originally considering using an air compressor, but like the idea of using something smaller and similar to what you have.
I was using a 110V blower fan. But I had a smaller fan here for a project with 3D print cooling and I tried it out. The new fan is 12V and blows a good deal of air. I have it hooked up to my system through a relay that turns on if I call for mist cooling in the Gcode.
Here is a link to the blower Blower - Squirrel Cage (12V) - COM-11270 - SparkFun Electronics. I use CPAP hose which connects directly to the outlet (just fits inside the fan outlet) This run to a 3D printed piece I use which had the CPAP hose on one end and then converts it to a pair of 5/8" OD x 1/2" ID hoses. Those hoses go through my mill enclosure wall and over to the mill. At the mill they are attached to the spindle with a 3D printed bracket which holds thew Loc Line system I use to direct the air. I use this Loc Line kit from amazon http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006R9OFGS/ref=biss_dp_t_asn 1/2" set with 3 tips.
Since my mill is fully enclosed I keep the air blowing from the back of the spindle towards the front at 45 degrees or so. This helps to keep the chips away from the gantry and the V wheels vs blowing is back towards the gantry.
There is SLIGHTLY less air from the 12V blower but so far it has done 3 large 6+ hour jobs in 1/4" 5083 aluminum without a single issue and the cuts have been kept just as clean as with the 110V system. It seems to blow the chips clear of the cut an about 2" around it also, but not all over the mill as the 110V system tended to keep an area 3" or so clear and there was a fair amount of airborne dust with it, but not with the 12V system. The best part is how much LESS noise the 12V fan makes vs the 110V one, not to mention not having to switch 110V on the relay. I mush prefer to switch 12DC anytime over 110V when everything else controlled on the relay board is 24V or less.
1 Like