Continuing the discussion from User Assembly Tip:
From that thread - Zach said we need to ream holes for what I presume are the self tapping screws? As with Joe, I didn’t see any of that when going through the videos the first time or two.
Are there instructions for this? I’m already wary of screwing up rails with self tapping screws…so this is a new “concern”…
For those that have done this, can you provide some insight or tips? I’ve never built a machine or really had to use self tapping screws before.
There was no reaming in the video I watched. He did use tap-magic, which is good for me because I’ve got a LOT of the stuff.
I wouldn’t say you “need” to ream the holes. I was able to assemble mine without reaming them. Reaming is an option if you are having trouble with the default approach. Note that tapping fluid or WD-40 is highly recommended.
That…removes some stress. Thanks Jeff.
The post by Zach that inspired this had me worried. I’m not yet a “builder”, and the reason I got the X-carve was less parts, and hopefully easier build than a homebrew or Shapeoko 3.
I feel a little better now. Still quite nervous as I see tiny issues from other people about wiring and control boxes that I know absolutely nothing about.
Someone want to come to Maryland and put it together for me? Free beer. 
Sounds like you’re a lot like me, then 
You may not hit the 6-8 hour build times some are posting, but you will be able to assemble everything. And if you get stuck, we’ll help you out.
I used a cordless drill on a very low speed with the bit and a bit holder. I coated the screws with WD40 and very slowly started the first half of the screw. This was very easy, I had no problems and it saved lots of time. Screws are holding very vell too.
@JeffTalbot - I guarantee I wont hit the 6-8 hour times. I’m thinking more like 2 weeks. I also have kids and a full time job, so the chances of getting this done in even 3-4 sittings is pretty well impossible. Add my learning curve to that…and I’m sure it’ll be a mess.
@DonDespain - Even the thought of a low speed setting on the drill scares me. I’m so scared of jacking up a piece of rail and having to wait for a replacement. Should ship out a few “blanks” weeks ahead so us idiots have some practice runs.
I wonder if a bit holder socket would work? It sounds much easier to keep the screw aligned while turning than holding onto a standard driver, but without the possibility of an aggressive cordless drill zipping it in there crooked and trashing the whole thing.
Keep in mind the makerslide hole is already drilled, your just inserting the screw and turning the handle on the hand tool provided. You will do more damage boring the hole larger than just installing the self tapping screw. My screws went straight in VERY easily I used a variable speed 7.2 volt drill just barely turning. It had plenty of torque because the screw and hole are already the right size, I had complete control. I am a very careful, slow and calculated person when it comes to building things. The key - USE A LUBRICANT, and if your more comfortable doing it by hand you should. You will see when you get your kit that this step is not hard. To my knowledge not one person who actually has built the kit has had any problems. Your right about the 6-8 hour times, it will take longer for us newer folk, took me about twice that. Just study the assembly videos AND the Written directions over and over and you will have a much less frustrating experience. These folks in the forums are AWESOME too, plus you can call inventables anytime for help and they will go out of teier way to assist.
HEHEHE, I’m not a fan of WD-40 as a lube like this, so I used olive oil. Every one of my screws went in like a charm.
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While I’m sure that smelled nice while you were doing it…doesn’t that stuff go rancid? I’d hate to hear your machine smells funky after a summer in a shop.
@DonDespain, I’m probably overthinking it and will be fine. I’m more handy on the art/computer side of this than the tools and building side. Screwing up a $1500 machine is scary stuff.
I’m going to use tapping fluid. For some reason, I trust the writing on the label that presumably says it’s for tapping. WD-40 always helps me loosen stuff…the opposite effect I’d want in securing parts.
You may want to add a drip of lemon juice after olive oil. Tastes good.
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I have faith you won’t “screw up” your $1500 machine. I only paid a grand for mine though… WD 40 just to loosen stuff? Really? One of the listed uses on my can says lubricates screws for easy installation in wood and metal. Plus the creator of the build video even suggested it. To me, I will use the can of stuff I already have and save the dollars I save on “tapping oil” (which by definition is the same thing with a different label) to buy more CNC toys! I am a card carrying member of the WD40 fan club, inducted by my Dad and my Dad’s Dad. Here is a list of the over 2000+ uses for WD40. You didn’t much like my duct tape fix for the belts either, but I made it look very sharp, making a tiny neat band of black tape you can hardly see. I use a mixture of Duct tape and WD40 to hold my family together, He He! Just poking fun. Wait till you see my Dust collection from plumbing materials, maybe then you will appreciate redneck engineering. Ha ha!
http://wd40.com/img/WD-40_2000_uses.pdf
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Plus who does not love something originally made,to keep nuclear missles from rusting
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A machinist once told me that ATF has pretty much the exact viscosity as cutting fluid, and is usually both a whole lot easier to get, and cheaper to boot.
I keep mine in a plastic oil can, and it works great with tapping dies.
Well…I included shipping. I pretty much selected the big package for dummies version (ie: most expensive) because I dont know what I could do without. I think my wasteboard shipping alone was $90.
I’ve only ever used WD-40 to loosen rusted screws, never to install new stuff…so that’s a new one to me. Guess I’ll give it a go because I have it on hand and have the recommendation of people smarter than I am.
Did I mention I wasn’t quite handy with tools and such?
At Inventables we tested the self taping screws on different people. There is slight tolerance differences to the diameter of the hole in the MakerSlide so each person’s experience was different. For the people that were shorter and had weaker forearm muscles they had a hard time screwing in the self tapping screw. We added the #10 drill bit to the toolkit and they took a power drill into the hole to ream it out a tiny bit. After that they had no trouble.
When I tried I had no problem doing it by hand without the drill.
I did used cutting fluid.
NEVER MIND, 
just answered my own question…
Wow Zach your team has thought of everything! I think you should graph that with a curve showing the exact height and forearm muscle diameter, then throw in the redneck/Harvard IQ variant on a curve. Lets not forget humidity, temperatures, and geographic proximity to Inventables in Chicago! He he! 
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Also we should include what was fro breakfast, Who did and didn’t eat their Wheaties that day
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I’m 6’, 235# …I think I’ll be ok to do it by hand.
