[Resolved] Belt not tightening, just slips

Finally, i use betl clip form Shapeoko 2. Good deal.

I used zip ties on a couple of them, but then realized it was going to interfere with the carriage, so I replace them with a few wraps of electrical tape, and that seems to be working for now.

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Thanks for this tip. I used 1/2" electrical tape and it worked wonders and is discrete.

I also used heatshrink after my belts started loosening. Works extremely well and makes tensioning much easier.

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Was having this same problem. Zip ties worked perfect! Thanks guys

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Routing the belt like below works for me.

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This was a major issue when building my X-Carve. I had to take everything back apart and add heat shrink AND zip ties to keep the belts tight, which added at least an hour to the overall build… Can we add this to the instructions to save everyone else the hassle?


I’ve tried all possible positions of belt and it still slips. Now if I have to add a zip tie and/or shrink etc. Then this needs to be address in the instructions not on the forum which you have to search and find solutions to how to build a product. Now if this was on an additional part /add on thats one thing but this is for the product itself. Like having to cut a allen wretch so that it fits behind the z-axis… Zach… doing a great job on responding and leading the team but do you have someone who can spend the time searching the forums and revise the instructions so that all the people new to cnc can build the x-carve without having to provide extra engineering?

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@ChristopherMay sorry you struggled with this one. We have a new design in the works that we will be rolling out.

@JohnHayes can you please add a note in the instructions to address what @christopherMay is talking about?

Also quick note that anyone can update the instructions now. You make a request and @johnhayes will review it and approve of give you feedback.

We are hosting them on github which is used as a version control system.

Thanks Zach for the quickness as usual. I still am struggling with it sweating in the shop. None of the belts will stay. If there was another hole in the bracket the belt could be double bacadn.ith a push pin and double backed through the loops using the pin as an anchor. It rest on the rail and seems to work.

Sorry the text got scrambled when I tried uploading pic. Double backed… “i improvised with a push pin…”

Every mans dream…


What is the new design?

I think they are still testing options.

The bracket doesn’t need more holes. If you’ll change the routing as I showed in my post above, the belt will get locked in securely.

@ChristopherMay it’s hard to tell from the picture. Do you have both screws in there?

BillArnold you are using a clear piece of hardware that is not what I have. 2nd I tried it already.
The video at the end of the build for tuning the machine has a clearer explanation of how to keep friction with your finger to tighten belts… I will try it again but I have just moved on. Im soooo close to finishing!

You have a bracket with two slots in it. My bracket is the same. The reason my bracket looks different is that I needed to make a slightly wider bracket to hold the 9mm belts I chose to replace my 6mm belts. I used my SO2 to cut a bracket modeled after the stock bracket. I had some Lumicite (acrylic embedded with fiberglass) in my stock, so I cut six brackets to replace all of my stock brackets.

I had noticed with my 6mm belts that they would flop around a bit, even when snugged up real good. Exploring other ways to route the belt, what I show locked the belt securely. With the routing shown in the instructions, there can be a variable amount of pressure keeping the ribs of the belt interlocked. With my routing, there is no slipping because the ribs are locked together well.

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I like your solution for what you have done. I am not sure why you would say that 3 slots in the bracket is not helpful. If the bracket had a 3rd slot I bet 98% of these belt questions would disappear.

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